- Home
- News
TIM ATKIN MW defends Chardonnay - the world's greatest white grape' - against the ABC movement. He says it suffers for its popularity: being easy to grow, pronounce, make and sell, but notes it makes wines that are rarely undrinkable', compared with styles that are popular as well as bad - White Zinfandel and most Pinot Grigio'. He admits that vast plantings of Chardonnay at the expense of indigenous grapes has reduced the diversity of the wine world but has also helped drinkers discover other varieties it is often blended with. And they don't all taste the same or cost a fortune, he notes, selecting four under 14 from Chile, South Africa and France.
Read more...
|
Follow your heart when you choose a red wine, says SUSY ATKINS, who raises a glass (two small ones over dinner, not a whole bottle on an empty stomach) to antioxidants. She goes over the much-repeated facts (see Jamie Goode's feature in Harpers on 12 January) about how the grape skins and seeds of red grapes hold most of the protective properties and how those grown at high altitudes are especially potent because the longer ripening season produces extra pigments in their skins (ergo more antioxidants). She cites Professor Roger Corder's book, The Wine Diet, saying we should concentrate on Sardinian and southern French styles. There's no Italian pick but Atkins likes the 2003 Chteau Peyros Tempo Madiran (4.99 or 3.99 for two; Majestic).
Read more...
JOANNA SIMON takes a look at Shiraz/Viognier blends and reminds drinkers that while a small percentage of the white grape enhances the perfume, texture, and colour of the Shiraz, more isn't always better - sometimes 5% is too much. While the idea stems from Cte-Rtie in the Northern Rhne, it's Australia that makes most of these blends. Her best-value pick is 2004 Yering Station (9.99, Sainsbury's).
Read more...
It is time to crack open a full-bodied red, says SUSY ATKINS. Dismissing the namby-pamby drinks she has been sampling recently, she turns her attention to powerful reds that can measure up to hearty cold-weather stews. I've heard of Aussie winemakers refer to them as wines with grunt' - an apt description of red packed with concentrated fruit and chunky, almost chewy tannins,' she observes. The best big reds come from warm vineyard sites in South Africa, Spain, Chile, France's deep south and Australia, she says.
Read more...
As the supermarket leviathans march through Brighton and Hove, JONATHAN RAY suggests oenophiles escape to the small independent merchants in the area. To broaden your (or his) shopping pleasure, he notes that Quaff Fine Wine Merchant, run by ex-Sussex county cricketer Toby Peirce, is by a transvestite's outfitters and, near to an erotic boutique is Festival Wines, specialising in organic - orgasmic? - wines. His weekly choices include 2004 Quinta do Ca (7.99; Butlers Wine Cellar).
Read more...
Dedicating her column to the underappreciated winemaker', VICTORIA MOORE hails the very much appreciated (given their multiple plaudits) Alvaro Espinoza of Chile, Portugal's Dirk Niepoort, Australia's Matt Gant and bestselling author Patricia Atkinson. Espinoza's organic 2004 Mareante Hill Cabernet-Merlot (5.99, Marks & Spencer) is a top-value pick.
Read more...
What effect does such a fted year as 2005 have on the vintages before and after it? JANCIS ROBINSON MW says it's too early to judge the testing' 2006 vintage, but she notes that classed growth 2004 Bordeaux look even better than they did en primeur' - and a real bargain compared with 2005. Red Burgundy wasn't so lucky: her tastings have been mixed and downright depressing'. But there is joy' from whites, especially Chablis, which seems more successful than in 2005.
Read more...
JANE MacQUITTY also goes Grner this week. She disagrees that the variety is boring and bland by giving readers an annotated version of the variety's entry in The Oxford Companion to Wine, citing stats on hectolitres per hectare harvested, its percentage in total Austrian plantings and where best to plant it (the pretty terraced southern banks of the Danube' apparently). Eventually readers find out what it tastes like and where to buy some. When in Vienna, she likes the oh-so popular heurigen inns'.
Read more...
Explaining the desirability of the 2005 Burgundies, JANCIS ROBINSON MW says nothing went wrong except for a spot of hail in the growing season. Thanks to a lack of water, the grapes may have been pea-sized, with thick skins full of flavour, tannin and colour, but for most of the red wines, yields were relatively respectable. She agrees with Bernard Dugat-Py's view that 2005 is not like the super-ripe 1989 and 1990 vintages, because it has much more acidity and much riper tannins. If there is one dominant characteristic of the wines, she says, it is their thrilling combination of ripeness with acidity'.
Read more...
MATTHEW JUKES picks out seven affordable wines from California this week. Among them are 2004 Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel (8.99; Thresher) and 2005 Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir, Hahn Estates (6.99; Sainsbury's).
His Wine of the Week is 2005 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay (6.49-6.99; Sainsbury's, Tesco), which he says sits shoulder to shoulder with any other great Chardonnay at a similar price'.
Read more...
Rich, fruity full-on wines that go well with Indian curries do not go with Thai food, says SUSY ATKINS.
She thinks Thai dishes need a more delicate touch, and a lighter, crisper style, and suggests trying an exotic wine such as 2004 Preiss-Zimmer's Gewrztraminer (6.99; Morrison's), 2006 Villa Maria Gewrztraminer (7.99; Waitrose, Majestic) or 2005 Pauletts Riesling, Polish Hill River (9.99; Majestic).
Read more...
This week JAMIE GOODE looks for full-flavoured whites and richly fruited red wines to partner sweet and spicy North African dishes this week.
His recommendations range from the 2005 Wolf Blass Yellow Label Riesling (7.49; Morrison's) to the slightly less mainstream Brazilian wine 2005 Rio Sol (4.99; Waitrose). He says it is surprisingly good for a vineyard that produces three crops a year. A Merlot from Moroccan producer, Les Celliers de Meknes, also comes in for praise.
Read more...
Tawny Port does not have the comfort factor of Vintage Port, says JOANNA SIMON, partly because it should be served chilled. Despite being the colour of terracotta tiles', she praises it for its versatility and as a match for killer chocolate puddings'. Watch out for cheap versions that don't indicate an age, she warns. Her recommendations include 10-Year-Old Marks & Spencer Aged Tawny (11.99), 10-Year-Old Noval Tawny Port (15.59; Waitrose) and Graham's The Tawny (14.99-15.09; Sainsbury's, Tesco, Thresher, Waitrose).
Read more...
The one dark cloud hanging over the UK wine trade is the Chancellor, observes MATTHEW JUKES. We have to pay the same duty rate per bottle for English wines as we do for wines made outside our shores, and it is time to give us a break, he argues.
Biddenden Vineyard, in Biddenden, Kent - his former local vineyard - Jukes says has always made good wines and its 2005 Gribble Bridge Ros (78.60 for 12 bottles) is not to be missed.
Read more...
It's JANE MacQUITTY's turn to sing the praises of Portugal's native grape varieties and its wines this week. Many bear a hefty price tag, but among the more affordable wines, she recommends: Sainsbury's 2005 Taste the Difference Douro red (6.99), produced by Quinta do Crasto; 2001 Jos de Sousa red (6.29; Waitrose); and 2004 Portal da Aguia Trincadeiro (5.69; Oddbins).
Read more...
Although Barbera and Dolcetto might not be as intellectual as Nebbiolo-based Barolo and Barbaresco', VICTORIA MOORE recommends these grapes for value and easy-drinking qualities. So easy that they can be drunk from a Duralex beaker' apparently. Among her recommendations is 2003 Elio Grasso Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina. But at 18.75 a bottle (Lay & Wheeler), I think I'd be reaching for a glass.
Read more...
The results of the Wines of Argentina awards are this week's topic of conversation for JANCIS ROBINSON MW. She says the most exciting aspect is that only one of the trophy-winning wines costs more than 10 a bottle, although she expresses disappointment about the lack of white wines entered.
Wines worthy of mention include the 2006 Alamos Pinot Noir, Mendoza (6.99; Majestic) and the 2006 JF Lurton Chardonnay Reserva.
Read more...
As part of the launch of the Cloudy Bay locator', JONATHAN RAY has lunch with Tony Jordan, CEO of Cape Mentelle, Cloudy Bay and Green Point.
Ray gives a blow-by-blow account of his meal, from eel fillet to kangaroo loin, as well as a glowing report of the various Jordan wines served with each course. It reads like a LVMH advertorial.
However, Jordan makes an interesting point: The New World is expected to be constantly on the move but nobody asks when Chteau Margaux will produce a Syrah or Chardonnay ... our parent company in France demands innovation from us then when I ask what's new with Dom Prignon, they go all Gallic, shrug and mutter, "That's different."'
Read more...
The great thing about the 2005 Burgundies is how very good many of the humbler wines are, says JANCIS ROBINSON. There is something almost a little absurd about the current rush to acquire the grandest, most expensive wines of the vintage. Not only were the 2005 grapes unusually ripe and unusually healthy, this European winter has been unusually mild in Burgundy, so the 2005 cask samples have been fruity and easy to taste.
Read more...
Another with a nose for Wine Relief is MATTHEW JUKES. He is sufficiently committed to the event to be devoting two weeks to recommendations from the Wine Relief List. In theory, you can enjoy great wine, have a laugh on Red Nose Day and also do your bit for charity with ease if you follow these wines.'
This week his eight recommendations - all white - include: 2006 Stormhoek Sauvignon Blanc (4.49; Sainsbury's); 2006 Pirque Estate Sauvignon Blanc (6.99; Marks & Spencer); 2005 Brown Brothers Dry Muscat (5.29; Somerfield); and 2005 Tesco Gavi (5.99).
Read more...
