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Mendocino County in northern California is more than just a neighbour of Napa Valley, it's home to a group of enlightened and innovative winemakers who embrace the organic/biodynamic philosophy more warmly than, perhaps, anywhere else in the world,' says JONATHAN RAY. He is shown around Fetzer's, Bonterra Vineyards by winemaker Bob Blue and discovers that it's the largest grower and producer of organic wine in the world'. Among Mendocino's other mentioned producers are Handley Cellars and Golden Vineyards.
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Pink wine is now in demand throughout the year, says SUSY ATKINS. She says the most impressive of the big, full ross usually come from new wave wineries in Australia, New Zealand and California, but she has spotted a few from Spain and Portugal too'. Her Try These' are: 2005 Tagus Creek Shiraz Touriga Nacional, Portugal (4.99; Booths); 2005 Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah Ros, California (5.99; widely available); and 2006 Stoneleigh Pinot Noir Ros, Marlborough, New Zealand (6.99; Waitrose).
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Now that liquid is forbidden in airline hand luggage, the wine choices on board have assumed considerably more importance, says TIM ATKIN MW. The business class wine list is definitely an improvement on economy, but a recent tasting proved that the overall level of quality is still disappointing'. Fruity examples came out a lot better than tannic wines, due to the dulling of the senses at altitude, and Atkin says: Apart from a good glass of Champagne, the wines that taste good are softer reds and richer whites.' One such example he gives is 2004 Coney Pizzicato Pinot Noir, Martinborough (11.99, each if you buy two; Majestic).
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In terms of wine matching, deli food requires good all-rounders with similarly straightforward qualities,' says JAMIE GOODE, and he has a few suggestions up his sleeve. One possibility is 2004 Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda, Chile (9.49; Waitrose).
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Glassware is the topic up for discussion by ANTHONY ROSE this week, because some of the ghastly vessels that pass as wine glasses often fail to do justice to the liquid in the bottle'. For something better than everyday drinking, Rose points readers towards the usual suspects: Schott-Ziesel and Riedel. He also comes up with a couple of alternatives, including Mikasa's Open Up glass (from 20 for four glasses; mikasa-uk.com), made from a new material called Kwarx manufactured by Arc International, which is so durable that he manages to break it only by hurling it at the floor from a great height'. His wine suggestion for under a fiver is 2005 Tesco Finest Gavi (4.49 until 10 October).
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Sauvignon Blanc may not have the flexibility of Chardonnay, admits JOANNA SIMON, but it's an ideal aperitif or accompaniment to the last of the summer salads'. She recommends 2005 Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc, Chile (9.99; Waitrose).
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MATTHEW JUKES travels to Argentina and Chile, and recommends some of the best [wines] on the planet'. Of the whites, 2006 Argento Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina (5.99; Co-op, Majestic, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose) is floral, honeyed and classy'. This week's WoW is 2003 Kuyen, Alvaro Espinoza, Maipo, Chile (8.99; Adnams).
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For those with time-consuming commitments such as children, there is often little option except to buy almost everything from supermarkets, and VICTORIA MOORE discovers that Tesco's current wine sale is the perfect place to head for. Bargains include the cool and bracing' 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (5.99 from 7.99) and 2005 Tesco Finest Gavi (4.49 from 5.99), which Moore describes as one of the best-value and most versatile wines that Tesco sells'.
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TIM ATKIN MW has toppled over to the dark side and declared himself to be a believer. That is to say, he's beginning to think that wines, just like people, have good and bad days' and he is thus prepared to put faith in the biodynamic idea of root', fruit' and flower' days.
He's not the only one who feels so inclined, and a chat with Marks and Spencer's wine buyer, Jo Ahearne, reveals that the retailer is hugely guided by lunar cycles and never holds press tastings on root days any more'. Some of the best from M&S included 2004 Lone Range Pinot Noir, Martinborough (14.99).
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RICHARD EHRLICH is raving about Jamie Goode's book, Wine Science: The Application of Science in Wine Making, this week - in a good way. It surveys authoritatively just about every important area of scientific study in the wine world.' Recommended wines include 2005 Anakena Chardonnay/Viognier (5.99; Co-op).
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TIM ATKIN MW has toppled over to the dark side and declared himself to be a believer. That is to say, he's beginning to think that wines, just like people, have good and bad days' and he is thus prepared to put faith in the biodynamic idea of root', fruit' and flower' days.
He's not the only one who feels so inclined, and a chat with Marks and Spencer's wine buyer, Jo Ahearne, reveals that the retailer is hugely guided by lunar cycles and never holds press tastings on root days any more'. Some of the best from M&S included 2004 Lone Range Pinot Noir, Martinborough (14.99).
Atkin is joined by REBECCA SEAL for an in-depth look at cool summer drinking, and ros continues its winning streak, with top examples including 2004 Tariquet Ros, Vin de Pays des Ctes de Gascogne (5.99; Somerfield). Seal turns her attention to spirts and introduces the results of a blind tasting, which aimed to discover if it's worth paying more for a designer brand. Tanqueray 10 came out well on the gin front, but Bombay Sapphire did not. Reshnoff was the winning vodka.
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The new-look International Wine Challenge (IWC) gets the thumbs up from RICHARD EHRLICH, whose experience with competitions means he thinks he's moderately well qualified to state that when they're well run, they are a largely reliable guide to quality in the bottle'.
This year's changes within the top management and judging panel has resulted in some worthy medals, says Ehrlich, not least because he has already recommended a few of them in the past.
And even if he hasn't, there are many others I would have guessed at'. This week's wine recommendations include 2005 Anakena Chardonnay/Viognier (4.99; Co-op).
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According to JAMIE GOODE, there's only one type of wine that should be ordered with shellfish: crisp, dry whites'. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Pinot Grigio ought to do the trick, he says, before suggesting a few examples to try. First on his list is 2004 Paul Mas Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays d'Oc (4.99; Waitrose, Asda).
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California does things differently,' says JANE MacQUITTY and she's not very impressed. California has become complacent about the needs of the British palate, most likely because sales of the cheap, sweet, bottom-end Golden State wines are growing like topsy here.' The good news, however, is that a bumper 2005 harvest looks set to create a wine glut similar to those of the early Noughties', she continues, which should see the appearance of a few bargains in the UK. MacQuitty's favourites from California include 2002 Ironstone Cabernet Franc (6.99; Somerfield and Waitrose) and 2004 Fetzer Valley Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon (6.99; Waitrose, Co-op).
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ANTHONY ROSE sweet talks his readers this week, saying forget Liebfraumilch and Lambrusco, 'the fine sweet wines that end a meal beautifully are among the great wonders of the wine world'. If price is a problem, Rose lets slip that 'Australia cunningly replicates the Sauternes experience at a fraction of the price in wines such as the 2002 Peter Lehmann Barossa Valley Botrytis Semillon (5.99-6.99, half-bottle; Booths, Oddbins and Jeroboams). Sweet Riesling from Germany is a classic style, Rose continues, but 'no pantheon of sweet wines would be complete without Tokaji', and one of the best of the best is 1999 Royal Tokaji Tokaji Asz 5 Puttonyos (8.99; Waitrose).
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ANTHONY ROSE takes on two of the wine world's heavyweights this week, saying: 'Hugh Johnson and Robert Parker may be the twin colossi of wine writing, but as a weighty biography of one [The Emperor of Wine, by Elin McCoy] and the other's characteristically fine new book [Wine: A Life Uncorked, by Hugh Johnson] make clear, they're poles apart.' Rose is a fan of Johnson's prose, which he describes as 'a window on mouthwatering feasts and intriguing personalities'. Parker is more about numbers, however, and Rose suggests, 'Could it be that the 100-point system for rating wines was in fact Parker's way of compensating for his own lack of vocabulary in the face of Johnsonian eloquence?' For good wine under a tenner, Rose suggests 2004 La Toledana Gavi, Villa Lanata (7.99; Majestic).
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The average bottle price for Kiwi wine may be down to 5.68 from more than 6, but there's no need to panic, says ANTHONY ROSE. New Zealand is 'still way ahead of its closest rival with only Australia and France hurdling 4 a bottle, while the rest of the world languishes on a puny 3.85'. One of the reasons for this success, he continues, is 'because it plants only two hectares to every 15ha in Australia, it has had to make its voice heard by putting quality before big brands'. Malborough is still the region in the starring role with wines such as Jackson Estate Sauvignon (9.99; Tesco), although Rose discovers that other regions and varieties are beginning to make an impact. One example is 2004 Vidal Riesling (7.50-8.24; Kingsgate Wines, Wimbledon Wine Cellar, Noel Young Wines).
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The average bottle price for Kiwi wine may be down to 5.68 from more than 6, but there's no need to panic, says ANTHONY ROSE. New Zealand is still way ahead of its closest rival with only Australia and France hurdling 4 a bottle, while the rest of the world languishes on a puny 3.85'. One of the reasons for this success, he continues, is because it plants only two hectares to every 15ha in Australia, it has had to make its voice heard by putting quality before big brands'. Malborough is still the region in the starring role with wines such as Jackson Estate Sauvignon (9.99; Tesco), although Rose discovers that other regions and varieties are beginning to make an impact. One example is 2004 Vidal Riesling (7.50-8.24; Kingsgate Wines, Wimbledon Wine Cellar, Noel Young Wines).
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'English wine is no longer the joke it once was,' says Owen Elias, winemaker at Chapel Down in Kent, talking to JONATHAN RAY. Ray is keeping Elias company on a visit to Jean-Philippe Archambaud, winemaker at Simonnet-Febvre in Chablis, but ends up feeling a little out of his depth once the chatter turns to rainfall, sunlight hours, sugar levels and acidity. Although he's back in the frame when the tasting of 2003 and 2004 Chablis begins: 'The wines differ across the quality levels, but their hallmark remains a soft, gentle butteriness with elusive hints of honey and an appealing freshness.' A return match is on the cards for next week, with France putting England to the test. Wines of the week include 2004 Vergelegen Chardonnay, South Africa (7.99 as part of a case; Majestic).
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If you're looking for a wine to go with bruschetta of red pepper and goat's cheese, GILES KIME says you can't go far wrong with 2005 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc (7.99; Majestic).
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