Sauvignon Blanc may not have the flexibility of Chardonnay, admits JOANNA SIMON, but it's an ideal aperitif or accompaniment to the last of the summer salads'. She recommends 2005 Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc, Chile (9.99; Waitrose).
The varied, often spicy flavours of Caribbean dishes mean they're compatible with a lot
of tipples,' says JAMIE GOODE.
He picks out a few robust,
full-flavoured' options such as 2004 Chteau de Pennautier Cabards, France (5.49; Majestic, Berry Bros & Rudd).
TIM ATKIN MW worries that he might be out of a job soon thanks to Wine-bot, a robo-sommelier', which has been developed in Japan. In the meantime, his wines of the week are all gold medal winners at the 2006 International Wine Challenge, including 2005 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc, Malborough (8.99; Oddbins).
The Observer Food Monthly also makes some space for wine but this time it's courtesy of GUY WOODWARD, editor of Decanter magazine. Woodward highlights another big wine competition - the Decanter World Wine Awards - and picks out 50 winners. The under 10 selection includes 2005 Kangarilla Road Viognier, McLaren Vale, South Australia (9.99; Majestic), which was awarded a gold medal.
German wines aren't given the boost they normally receive from JANCIS ROBINSON MW this week. Following a recent tasting, she observes: Although German vintners have become more skilled at making dry wines with every vintage,
I cannot recommend dry 2005s as unreservedly as the traditional fruitier styles made in the more northerly wine regions, especially Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, in this vintage.' Pfalz comes out the worst, with no wine receiving a top mark, and the wines from Franken are singled out for the highest praise - really convincingly racy, super-clean fruit, a nice lick of earthiness and great balance'. Her top producers overall include Juliusspital Wrzburg in Franken and Tesch in Nahe.
JONATHAN RAY heads to the Cape and falls in love. The country is beautiful, the welcome effusive and the wines utterly bewitching.' Bruce Jack's Flagstone winery is one of the stop-off points and Ray comments: Innovative, daring and provocative, Jack has long been the enfant terrible of the South African wine industry'. Charles Back of Fairview is next on the list and Ray gets a chance to taste his three labels (Charles Back, Fairview and Spice Route) including the Goats do Roam series, which has been extended to include the Bordeaux-style red: Bored Doe. And in Ray's view, there's not a poor one among them'.
It's Wine Week with The Daily Telegraph and celebrations begin with some food and wine matching advice from Ray. The subject of glassware is also up for discussion and, according to BRYONY GORDON, one of the rules is: the lighter the glass the better the quality'. Burgundy is in the spotlight and readers are given a breakdown of the region, including comments on the grapes and notable vintages.
September is well and truly under way, and ANTHONY ROSE has turned his thoughts to game or, more importantly, the wines that go with it. Bringing the best out of grouse or partridge can be achieved with an evolved red Burgundy', he advises, such as 2000 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs, 1er cru, Domaine Carr Courbin (27.50; Berry Bros & Rudd). Italian reds can also go down a treat and Rose's favourites include 2004 Piancornello Rosso di Montalcino (13.50-14.95; Stone, Vine and Sun; Lay and Wheeler).
Steak is on the menu for VICTORIA MOORE and there are plenty of red wine options to consider. Shiraz is a winner with a peppery steak and Moore recommends 2000 Geoff Merrill McLaren Vale Reserve Shiraz (12.99; Tesco) but different rules apply elsewhere. For example, the tannic austerity of a Chianti is tamed out of recognition by a hulk of bleeding T-bone'. Suggestions include 2004 Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico (around 10; M&S, Tesco, Waitrose).
SUSY ATKINS offers a forecast for autumn wine trends and sees potential for more premium reds from Chile, unusual grape varieties from France and Italy, and South Africa should make a deep impression with its gutsy, full-bodied red blends and finely balanced, fresh Sauvignon Blancs'. Pinot Noir's popularity also looks set to continue and Atkins suggests trying 2004 Porta Reserve Pinot Noir, Bo Bo, Chile (6.49; Thresher).
VICTORIA MOORE's husband has decided to buy a barbecue, and despite her initial reaction - Oh dear'- she acknowledges that it could be chance to sample some new wines. There are entire wine regions, and grape varieties, too, that I almost never touch away from the charred meat-feast of the barbecue.' Argentina comes out well here and among her favourites are the perfumed and lush' 2004 Anubis Malbec (5.99; selected Tesco).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES travels to Argentina and Chile, and recommends some of the best [wines] on the planet'. Of the whites, 2006 Argento Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina (5.99; Co-op, Majestic, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose) is floral, honeyed and classy'. This week's WoW is 2003 Kuyen, Alvaro Espinoza, Maipo, Chile (8.99; Adnams).
Read more...The Mondavi empire was bought by Constellation Brands in 2004 but now Michael Mondavi has taken over Carneros Creek winery in Napa Valley and wants to be able to use his name on the label. Should this be allowed? Perhaps if it's just a signature, says RICHARD EHRLICH. Other news is focused on the Tesco Autumn Wine Festival (11 September to 10 October), featuring bargains such as 2004 Graham Beck Pinotage (4.99 from 6.99).
JAMIE GOODE finds that Vietnamese cuisine presents something of a challenge in the wine-matching stakes' and the best way forward is fruity, spicy whites', such as 2005 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough (8.99; Oddbins).
Read more...JONATHAN RAY is living it up in the Duck and Dingo - a pub in the Australian embassy's patch of London - and tasting his way through some of the country's finest wines. He is helped along by Kirsten Moore, the regional manager of Wine Australia, who tells him: There is much more to Australia than just 4.99 jug wine, and that's the message we need to get across.' A few antipodean dishes are brought in to add to the experience and one of Ray's favourite matches is crocodile lasagne, a first for me', with 2005 Nepenthe Sauvignon Blanc (7.99; Sainsbury's).
It's all about fruit for JAMIE GOODE this week and he picks out a few reds that are packed full of the stuff, showing rich, ripe, sweet flavours'. One example is 2005 St Hallett Unearthed Touriga Nacional, Barossa (9.99 from 14.99 until 24 September; Waitrose).
Read more...TIM ATKIN MW is curious to discover who is behind the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants (ASDW) and takes himself along to its tasting. The ASDW was set up last year, he reports, to protest against some of the anomalies in the 2003 Licensing Act and their effect on small businesses'. It's grown since then and Atkin approves of the personalities involved: Most of the members are enthusiasts. By this, I don't mean the sort of people who bore you witless at parties about the Chteau Musar they had with dinner last night. These men and women are the real deal: genuine lovers of wine who can't help sharing their passion with other people.' Among his recommendations from the tasting is 2003 Eppalock Ridge Shiraz (20; www.boutiquewinecompany.
co.uk)
The Observer Food Monthly rates the best and worst Prosecco from 3 with the help of GENNARO CONTALDO and GENNARO D'URSO from Passione restaurant. Marks and Spencer came out on top with M&S Prosecco (7.49) awarded five stars, while Tesco was one of the losers with no stars given to its La Gioiosa (6.99).
For those with time-consuming commitments such as children, there is often little option except to buy almost everything from supermarkets, and VICTORIA MOORE discovers that Tesco's current wine sale is the perfect place to head for. Bargains include the cool and bracing' 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (5.99 from 7.99) and 2005 Tesco Finest Gavi (4.49 from 5.99), which Moore describes as one of the best-value and most versatile wines that Tesco sells'.
It was MATTHEW JUKES' birthday at the weekend and that means a chance to indulge himself. One of his favourite ways to do this is with a large, chilled glass of world-class pudding wine' and his top choices include 2001 Chteau La Rame, Sainte Croix du Mont, Bordeaux (9.99 for 50cl; Majestic).
JANE MacQUITTY simply can't understand why everybody whinges about the high alcohol levels of wines. What few commentators get to grips with is that balance is what you are looking for in wine,' she comments. The greatest wines with lots of flavour and concentration can carry an extra alcoholic degree.' She suggests trying a bottle of 2004 Cape Mentelle Cabernet-Merlot (11.99; Waitrose, Majestic). Sherry is also given a mention and one of MacQuitty's favourites is the 17% Solera Jerezana Reserva Manzanilla Sherry (6.99; Waitrose).
Read more...It's the turn of TIM ATKIN MW to say farewell to Australian legend Len Evans this week and the praise is plentiful: Evans was a showman, wit, exhibitionist and raconteur, who championed Australian wine styles with considerable vigour.' He admits that the Australian wine industry today is not without its problems - such as over-supply and a few disappointing brands - but there is just as much reason for optimism'. With Len Evans in mind, Atkin picks out some Aussie classics, including 2004 Tesco Finest Denman Vineyard Semillon (7.99; Tesco).
Read more...MATTHEW JUKES is also following the summer theme and introduces a few of his own 'seasonal stars'. Try a glass of 2004 De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir, Victoria, Australia (8.99; Oddbins) and 'you will be struck by the ethereal nuances of wild strawberry wafting up into your nostrils and wooing our senses'. Or go for this week's Wow, the 'titillatingly crisp' 2005 Willow Bridge Dragonfly, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Geographe, Western Australia (7.49 or 4.99 when you buy three for two; Thresher)
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