The Observer

TIM ATKIN MW is curious to discover who is behind the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants (ASDW) and takes himself along to its tasting. The ASDW was set up last year, he reports, to protest against some of the anomalies in the 2003 Licensing Act and their effect on small businesses'. It's grown since then and Atkin approves of the personalities involved: Most of the members are enthusiasts. By this, I don't mean the sort of people who bore you witless at parties about the Chteau Musar they had with dinner last night. These men and women are the real deal: genuine lovers of wine who can't help sharing their passion with other people.' Among his recommendations from the tasting is 2003 Eppalock Ridge Shiraz (20; www.boutiquewinecompany.
co.uk)
The Observer Food Monthly rates the best and worst Prosecco from 3 with the help of GENNARO CONTALDO and GENNARO D'URSO from Passione restaurant. Marks and Spencer came out on top with M&S Prosecco (7.49) awarded five stars, while Tesco was one of the losers with no stars given to its La Gioiosa (6.99).