German wines aren't given the boost they normally receive from JANCIS ROBINSON MW this week. Following a recent tasting, she observes: Although German vintners have become more skilled at making dry wines with every vintage,
I cannot recommend dry 2005s as unreservedly as the traditional fruitier styles made in the more northerly wine regions, especially Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, in this vintage.' Pfalz comes out the worst, with no wine receiving a top mark, and the wines from Franken are singled out for the highest praise - really convincingly racy, super-clean fruit, a nice lick of earthiness and great balance'. Her top producers overall include Juliusspital Wrzburg in Franken and Tesch in Nahe.