The Observer

TIM ATKIN MW is a Nebbiolo convert. He used to think that Nebbiolo was overrated: a dry, tannic, old-boot-ish grape whose high prices bore no relation to the stuff in the bottle'. He now compares the wines of Piedmont to heaven on earth.
Modern producers such as Angelo Gaja and Ello Altare, and traditionalists including Bruno Giacosa, have changed his mind, but he admits that Nebbiolo can still be disappointing and inconsistent.
He recommends Sainsbury's 2002 Taste the Difference Barolo, Ascheri (12.99), up to the more costly 2001 Asili di Barbaresco from Bruno Giacosa (59.33; John Armit).