Bence Karpatfalvi: ‘Looking Back, Forging Ahead’

By Harpers Editorial team

Published: 11 August, 2025

Bence Karpatfalvi, head sommelier at the recently awarded three Michelin-starred Moor Hall Restaurant with Rooms, talks challenges and triumphs for our summer series of Q&As.

How has business been for you in the first half of 2025 and how do things compare to where you were last year?

The first half of 2025’s been pretty special for us. Earning that third Michelin star really put a spotlight on what we’ve been working toward: staying disciplined, creative, and all pulling in the same direction. It’s brought in a lot more attention – especially from further afield – and it’s pushed us to refine what we do even more. Compared to last year, it’s not just about the numbers ticking up. The energy feels different.

What have been the biggest challenges and headaches so far this year and how have you sought to mitigate those?

Honestly, with more attention comes more pressure – keeping standards high across everything: service, sourcing, people. We’ve focused on building up the team, making sure communication stays clear and everyone knows why we do what we do. Wine allocations have been a bit of a juggle too, especially as we try to stick with producers we believe in. We’re managing that by building closer relationships and keeping things rooted in trust rather than chasing trends.

What are you most proud of achieving this year in terms of driving the business forward?

I think what’s stood out is how everything feels joined up now. The food, the wine, the whole experience – it’s all moving in sync. We’ve brought in more producers, focused on provenance and sustainability, and tried to make sure that each glass and each plate feels like part of a bigger story. For us, it’s about giving people a memorable moment at the table, one that actually means something.

Looking ahead to the second half of the year, what is the biggest cause for concern?

Sustainability’s always on our minds – whether that’s financial, environmental, or making sure the team stays happy and healthy. Keeping standards high without burning out is a fine balance. We’re working closely with suppliers and partners who get that long-term mindset, and inside the business we’re constantly checking in to make sure the culture doesn’t suffer as things get busier.

What single thing could the Government do to best improve trading conditions and the success of the drinks sector?

Simplify things, especially around imports and duties. It’s too complicated right now, especially for smaller, quality-led producers. If it were easier to get those interesting, thoughtful wines onto lists here, it’d help everyone – restaurants, producers, and ultimately the guests.

What trends are you seeing in the drinks’ world at the moment, and how do you expect that to change going into the autumn?

People are definitely getting more curious and open-minded. Less about ticking boxes – natural or classic, it doesn’t matter as long as it’s made with honesty. Guests care more about the story: who’s behind the wine, how it’s made, why it matters. Heading into autumn, we reckon there’ll be a shift toward more structured, savoury wines – something with a bit of age, or oxidative character that really suits the mood of the season.

Any other predictions for the second half of the year?

We think people will keep looking for experiences that feel more personal. Not just polished luxury, but something with heart – connection to the people and the place. Whether that’s through themed flights, collaborating with specific producers, or just taking a bit more time to chat at the table, that’s where the future feels like it’s heading.

Quick Fire Questions

France, Italy or Spain?

France – classic, but still full of surprises

Georgia, Greece or UK?

UK. The creativity here’s really hitting its stride

‘Normal’ or ‘natural’ wine?

As long as it’s made with care and purpose, we’re in

Cocktails or straight sippin’ spirits?

Straight spirits. No fuss, just good character

Mixologist or mix it at home?

Definitely a pro. You can’t beat the right setting and skill

Aperitif preference?