Ignoring James Bond's famous line about spotting baddies because they drink red wine with fish, MATTHEW JUKES goes ahead and matches the two. For fish stews and pies, he opts for 2004 M&S Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir (4.99); for 'a majestic sea bass or turbot', he recommends 2002 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir (17.9920; selected Sainsbury's, Villeneuve of Peebles); and his final selection, which will 'lift and caress your olfactory system', is 2003 Saumur Rouge Les Nivires (3.99, down from 4.99 until 3 July; Waitrose).