Austria is one of the few countries that drinks more of its own wine than it exports, meaning that until recently, all consumers saw were high-end examples poured by sommeliers. But ANTHONY ROSE says the trend away from cheap and cheerless' wines has helped Austria flaunt its Rieslings and Grner Veltliners in the UK. Whether a Pinot Grigio fan looking to upgrade or white Burgundy drinkers wanting something lighter, Rose likes 2006 Kurt Angerer GV Kies (7.99; Noel Young), 2006 Salomon-Undhof Hochterrassen GV (7.95, Lea and Sandeman) and 2006 Schloss Gobelsburger GV (6.49; Waitrose).
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"Fairtrade wines are coming of age," says Jonathan Ray. Although he was disappointed with the wines on offer two years ago, Ray insists that the latest vintages are "vastly improved". "You can feel good about drinking them," he adds.
Heaven on Earth Organic Sweet Wine NV (6.99/375ml, Stanton Wine Co) "boasts rich apricot and honey tones that make it ideal for pt de foie, blue cheese or creamy puddings". 2007 Fairhills Ros (4.99, Somerfield, Tesco, Waitrose) is "packed with vivacious, succulent wild strawberry fruit backed by a fine dry finish". And 2007 Origin Fairtrade Viognier (6.99 or 12 for three; Threshers, Wine Rack) is a "charmingly ripe, peachy and aromatic Viognier that goes beautifully with mild chicken curry or apricot-stuffed loin of pork".
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With most restaurants making their money from drink rather than food - with a convenient 200% mark-up in the process - Jamie Goode recommends enjoying the same bottles at home for far less cost.
His first choice is 2006 Quinta da Azevedo, Vinho Verde (5.99, Majestic, Waitrose), which is "crisp and refreshing, with laser-sharp fruit". He also opts for Asda Alsace Gewrztraminer (5.98), "an off-dry melony example that would go well with stuffed chillis". Finally, as a "big fan" of Grner Veltliner, he picks 2007 Domaine Gobelsburger (6.99; Waitrose), which has a "delicious peppery edge".
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News of a restaurant-goer who ordered a bottle of 1961 Ptrus at London eatery Zafferano recently, for a mere 18,000, then promptly sent it back because he thought it was a fake, gained numerous column inches in the national press. But what Victoria Moore wants to know is who ended up paying for it?
"With ordinary plonk, the restaurant returns bottles to the supplier, who will stump up for a replacement or pass on the cost to the producer, depending on their negotiated agreement. Fine wine is in another situation altogether, and the situation is never clearcut."
Paul Singer, MD of London Fine Dining Group, which owns Zafferano, tells her: "You can insure against wine being damaged in an accident - if a rack collapses, say. But wine with a fault? Not as far as we're aware. That's why some restaurants, unlike ours, warn the customer that they order expensive wine at their own risk."
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TIM ATKIN MW has a 10ft hole in the middle of his dining room: he is having a wine cellar built.
You don't have to spend a fortune to start a modest wine collection,' he says, and recommends four reds at under 10, including: 2004 Marques de Casa Concha Merlot (7.99; Sainsbury's); 2004 Domaine de Fontsque, Corbires (8.99; Marks & Spencer); and 2005 Peter Lehmann Tempranillo, Barossa Valley (7.99; Waitrose).
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To mark The Independent's retro issue, Anthony Rose is in nostalgia mode. He has managed to overcome his initial thoughts about Sherry, that it was "fit only for vicars, aunts and schoolmasters", and now realises that when it's chilled, and accompanied by salted almonds or olives, a good fino or manzanilla is "hard to beat".
Rose tries hard, but can't muster much enthusiasm for the Seventies, "an era of such cheerless sugar water as Blue Nun Liebfraumilch, not forgetting the awful Hirondelle, rustic Bulls Blood, confected pink Anjou ros, bland Piat d'Or and the pretensions of Mouton Cadet.
Turning his attention to the New World, his selections include 2005 Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel (8.99; Majestic, Oddbins, Waitrose); Jacob's Creek Chardonnay (5.95; widely available); and 2007 Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (5.99, down from 7.49; Morrisons, Sainsbury's).
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While at a 1970s-themed party, Susy Atkins skipped the Babycham and Liebfraumilch, and sampled the Mateus Ros on offer. "Quite nice" was her opinion, but she has kinder words for other Portuguese exports.
Pink Elephant (4.99, Booths), which was created to be drunk with Indian food, and is made by top winemakers Jos Neiva and David Baverstock, is a "juicy, aromatic, bright-cerise ros that's already proving hugely popular", says Atkins. Her other favourites include 2007 Tagus Creek Ros (4.99, Tesco), and Vinha da Urze White Table wine (7.99, M&S).
She adds: "Portugal is lauded for its fine reds and fortified wines, but perhaps we should all enjoy more of the affordable and attractive new-wave pinks and, come to mention it, fresh, interesting whites it produces."
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Chardonnay has become a victim of its own success but a couple of recent experiences have proved that it doesn't have to be as universally yawn-inducing as its detractors claim', says ANTHONY ROSE. He recommends Domaine Jomain's 2004 Puligny Montrachet (17.99; Majestic) and Errazuriz's 2005 Wild Ferment Chardonnay (9.99; Stone, Vine & Sun).
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They may be deeply unfashionable in the UK, but Tim Atkin MW is an unashamed fan of sweet wines, and given the choice, he says, would forego a dessert if one was on offer.
"Given the amount of work that goes into making them (especially in the vineyard, where grapes are sometimes picked individually), good dessert wines are unbelievably cheap," he says. "Even the finest bottles of Sauternes aren't expensive compared with other world-class wines."
Atkin points out just how diverse stickies are: "They range from 5.5% to 20% alcohol; they can be unoaked, sparkling or still, fortified or unfortified, and vary in colour from white to amber to purple. The only thing they have in common is residual sugar, but this can be anything between 70g and 700g."
His recommendations include 2004 Monbazillac, Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure (9.95, H&H Bancroft); 2007 Tempus Two Moscato (7.99, Tesco); and 2005 Coteaux du Layon Beaulieu, Slection des Grains Nobles L'Anclaie, Chteau de Pierre Bise (13.95/50cl, Lea & Sandeman).
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Ignore 2006 Burgundy and lavish all your attention on Australian Pinot Noir, says Jane Macquitty. However this was not always her view, as she admitted "how typically presumptuous of the Aussies, I thought, to pick Pinot Noir as one of their six regional heroes". But on tasting 20 of the featured wines in this category at the Australia Day tasting, MacQuitty begrudgingly says she was "wrong, wrong, wrong". Her recommendations include the "classic" 2006 Ninth Island Pinot Noir (,9.99, Waitrose) and the 2006 Pirie South Pinot Noir (9.99, Majestic) for its spice. Jeffrey Grosset's 2006 Adelaide Hills (26.95, Liberty) is also "deliciously smoky".
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JOANNA SIMON looks at Fairtrade wines, pointing out that Fairtrade Fortnight starts on Monday 26 February. The choice of wines has grown since last year in some of the big retailers, including Marks & Spencer, Thresher and the Co-Op. She directs readers to 2006 Los Robles Carmenre (4.99; Asda, Sainsbury's, Waitrose); 2006 Co-Op Fairtrade Argentine Torrontes/Chardonnay (3.19; Co-Op); and 2006 Fairtrade Curico Valley Shiraz (5.49; Marks & Spencer).
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Jancis Robinson discusses the banning of the name Tocai Friulano from wine labels exported from the Italian region of Friuli in the north-east. The reason? Because of its similarity to Tocai Friulano (Tokay) - a "legendary golden dessert wine of north-east Hungary". So name changes aside, what does the Italian grape variety have to offer, she asks. The 2006 Canus Friulano Colli Orientali Del Friuli has a "hint of smokiness" while the 2006 Schiopetto Tocai Friulano Collio is "creamy and flattering in texture" with "wonderfully explosive fruit".
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There is a certain amount of hyperbole utilised in the industry to weigh up vintages from different years, says Tim Atkin. However, one important factor to bear in mind is that "you should buy from top producers in lesser years and lesser producers in top years". This, he continues, allows purchasers to skip the pricey great vintages' and grab themselves a bit of a bargain in the process. Atkin adds this approach makes even more sense given he would "take issue with the general perception of what constitutes a great vintage anyway". Several bottles fit the bill of diamonds in the rough with his recommendations including a 2002 Era Costana Rioja Reserva (8.99, Sainsbury's) and a 2002 Vajra Barolo, Le Albe (27.95, Liberty Wines).
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What wine would most UK sommeliers like to drink? This has been the question lingering on Joanna Simon's lips over the past seven days. There was a clear - if unexpected - winner, she says. Riesling is the snifter of choice for 20 and 30-something sommeliers winning out over classics such as Burgundy and Pinot Noir. Simon states she should not have been so surprised given her knowledge "that the UK is almost the only country still to be largely resistant to the allure of both the Riesling grape and German wines". Buyers would do well to investigate the 2006 Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling (7.99, Tesco), she says, adding "perhaps it's time to jettison your prejudices and see what you're missing".
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Against a background of widespread admiration for New Zealand's wines, JANCIS ROBINSON MW takes a sideswipe at New Zealand Chardonnay. She observes that, while the typical New Zealand Chardonnay does show prominent acidity, it is too rarely accompanied by really interesting flavours'.
Robinson accepts, though, that there are some glorious exceptions, such as those produced by Michael Brajkovich MW at Kumeu River on the outskirts of Auckland. She also admits that some of the Hawkes Bay Chardonnays have greater subtlety than the norm.
The good news, says Robinson, is that the few growers who are putting new Chardonnay plants into the ground are choosing the more interesting, so-called Dijon' clones.
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Tim Atkin's offensive on Pinot Grigio continues in his weekly column. "I've been conducting a none-too-subtle, one-man campaign against this innocuous but generally palate-numbing Italian white for more than two years now." But sales continue to boom, he moans, so it is with renewed vigour that he suggests a number of "infinitely superior varieties" as alternatives. A lavish option would be the 2005 Le Mal Hermitage Blanc (122, 14.5%, Fine & Rare) cited by Atkins as one of the best whites he has tried in the last five years. For the more frugal amongst you the 2006 Tahbilk Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes (9.99, Wine Rack) may fit the bill.
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Victoria Moore feels that wine writers often hit sticky ground when trying to describe sweet wines. She argues "we have such a paucity of words that we are forced to fall back on overstretched compounds". This shouldn't put off the sweet toothed amongst you, however, with a fine selection available on the high street. Moore points to the 2004 Chteau Jolys Cuve Jean (9.99, Waitrose) for its "gently honeyed" perfumes and Tesco Finest Pedro, Ximenez (4.99, Tesco) which is "good value" but for "sugar hounds only".
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Sales of the Douro Valley's new wave of table wines have increased by 43% in the last year, Jonathan Ray comments. Established port houses such as Quinta de la Rosa, Quinta do Noval, Symington Family Estates and Real Companhia Velha are a good place to start, he says. Douro wines represent "exceptional value" and "burst with character, intensity and freshness". Ray concludes that with many supermarkets stocking Douro table wines for under a fiver, it is not without reason the area is called "the Valley of Gold".
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Full-bodied wines for English food is JAMIE GOODE's mission this week. His choices are 2003 Chteau de Targ Saumur-Champigny Les Truffeaux (7.49, Majestic); 2002 Weinert Malbec, Argentina (7.49, Sainsbury's); 2005 Tesco Finest Old Vines Garnacha, Campo de Borja, Spain (5.99, Tesco); 2006 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough (7.99, Waitrose) and 2005 Fiano di Avellino dei Feudi di Santa Gregorio, Campania (9.99, Waitrose). No English wines?
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With Valentine's Day lurking around the corner, Jane MacQuitty focuses on pink champagne and tries to cover all bases whatever the budget. Avoid the "evil and sweaty" 2007 Darling Sauvignon Blanc (4.99, Tesco), she pleads and "all those sickly chocolate and champagne combos" while you're at it. Instead, the frugal amongst us should opt for Prosecco Raboso, (5.49, Tesco) while the Heidsieck Monopole Brut Ros Top Champagne, (19.99, Tesco) is "surprisingly good". Those lotharios with a slightly bigger budget are advised to seek out the 2002 Louis Roederer Brut Vintage Ros (54.95, Harrods.)
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