Victoria Moore is championing Cava this week, despite the sneers of one of her friends and her admission that she has been "scorchingly rude" about the drink in the past. She admits if you are looking for a Wagner-esque "cerebral" experience then Cava may not be the best choice but otherwise "there's a lot to be said for trading down to trade up". Moore suggests trying the Codorniu Reserva Raventos (8.99, Majestic), which is "an ample, easy drink, with none of the nitpicking, dirty-edged vacuity that too often characterises Cava".