The Observer

Tim Atkin MW says that single grape wines have been dismissed by French snobbery in the past but this is all set to change. One Bordeaux winemaker recently posed the Observer critic the "snooty" question why consume junk when a three-course meal is on offer?'. Atkin remains headstrong though saying "there's nothing remotely wrong with varietal wines per se". His recommendations in this category tie in neatly with his recent judging for the fifth edition of the Vins de Pays Top 100, which rewards the best single grape wines around. The 2007 Vin de Pays des Ctes de Gascogne Fleur de Givre Florenbelle (4.99, everywine.co.uk) is a sweet wine made from Gros Manseng. He also flags up the "intense, minerally, white-pepper-scented 2007 Grenache Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc (5.49, Marks & Spencer).