The Independent

Anthony Rose recently attended an Icons' tasting of Argentine Malbecs at a restaurant in London's 02 Arena but was not overly enamoured with the terminology. Why, he asks, does his heart so often sink when the I-word is used? "Something to do perhaps with the fact that great wines ought to be not marketing constructs but ones that earn their icon stripes over time." Ultimately Rose was not impressed: "the depressing reality was that too many wines were caricatures". Once he had discounted the "bank-busting" options, there were, thankfully, some recommendations left. The 2006 Malbec Finca Sophenia Synthesis (15.95, winehound.co.uk) is mentioned for its "smooth as silk, black cherry fruits" while the 2005 Pulenta Estate Gran Corte (17.95, BB&R) is "a poised Malbec blend".