Although Barbera and Dolcetto might not be as intellectual as Nebbiolo-based Barolo and Barbaresco', VICTORIA MOORE recommends these grapes for value and easy-drinking qualities. So easy that they can be drunk from a Duralex beaker' apparently. Among her recommendations is 2003 Elio Grasso Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina. But at 18.75 a bottle (Lay & Wheeler), I think I'd be reaching for a glass.