A tour and tasting at Mot & Chandon's cellars in Epernay is enough to convince JONATHAN RAY that its wines deserve more respect than he has previously given them.
He confesses that he has found its wines unexciting in the past, but a tasting of the past 10 vintages convinces him otherwise. He has a sneak preview of the 2000 vintage, which will be launched in March, but can reveal no more than that it compares well with its forebears.