Who would choose to go into the wine business?' Generally, people who love wine, concludes RICHARD EHRLICH. One such person is David Bolomey, who has set up a website offering a breakdown of how the critics rate the 2005 Bordeaux vintage: www.bordoverview.com. Ehrlich also speaks to James Bercovici, who launched The Big Red Wine Company and his wine recommendations from here include 2003 Cairanne Vendange Chabrille', Ctes-du-Rhne Villages, Domaine Brusset (11.35).