The Guardian

'In wine circles the ability to spit like an Icelandic geyser is a critical social skill,' observes VICTORIA MOORE. She admits that the higher echelons of the 'spitocracy' continue to elude her and comments: 'The most experienced and revered palates scour the tables at great speed, swirl, gargle, then, with something of the swagger with which a cowboy might draw his pistol, their glance flicks in the direction of the spittoon and, at long range a jet of liquid arcs suddenly into it.' Spitting aside, she recommends a few of her Italian favourites, including 2005 La Prendina Estate Corvina (5.99; Marks and Spencer).