JOANNA SIMON takes a moment to consider the French AOC of Lirac and comments: It isn't so much one of France's forgotten wines as one that has never really made an impression.' If you can find these wines on a restaurant list, they're likely to be good value, she continues, or if you'd rather drink at home, try 2003 Chteau d'Aquria, Lirac (7.99; Majestic) or 2003 Domaine du Joncier, Lirac (8.50; Stone, Vine and Sun.