The Daily Telegraph

JONATHAN RAY goes green this week and pays homage to the environment-friendly, organic end of the market. 'Think of the synthetic fertilisers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides that might have been used in the vineyards,' he warns. 'Perhaps we should now be thinking organic?' Unfortunately, it isn't always that simple, he discovers. Due to reasons such as differing regulations across markets and a desire to be judged purely on quality, a lot of producers choose not to advertise their organic side. To give his readers a helping hand, Ray picks out some organic greats, such as 2004 Bonterra Chardonnay, California (8.99; Sainsbury's) and 2004 Domaine de Pontcher, Sauvignon de Touraine, France (5.99 as part of a case; Majestic).