MATTHEW JUKES's Wine of the Week is 2004 Pinot Grigio Ramato, Visintini (8.50, or 7.50 each when 12 are bought; Lea & Sandeman): 'You are guaranteed to fall head over heels for this wine. It is luscious and silky, with grapefruit, melon and pear fruit, and a prickle of lively acidity.'