The growing popularity of ros may be good news for producers in the south of France, but this trend, VICTORIA MOORE explains, 'has completely discombobulated those upper-middle-class types who still rely on there being a difference between a sofa and a settee to buttress their egos'. So much so, evidently, that an anxiously penned letter was sent to the Spectator, demanding to know the rules and regulations on how to drink ros. 'Out of doors and in company' was the reply, to which Moore's retort is 'stuff and nonsense'. 'I have been swigging back ros in earnest for seven years, ever since hooking up with the man to whom I am now married,' she says. She also recommends 2004 Chteau Guiot Ros Costires de Nmes (5.29, or 4.50 each if two bottles are bought; Majestic) and 2004 Turkey Flat Ros (7.999.99; Tanners, Noel Young, Bottle & Basket, Nidderdale Fine Wines).