The Observer

One of TIM ATKIN MW's golden rules is never to trust a wine that you've enjoyed on holiday: 'The most obvious example is retsina, a resin-flavoured wine that has fuelled more hangovers than the Munich Beer Festival.' He admits that until recently he would have included ross in the same category, but thanks to a new-found 'quality and diversity', ros sales in the UK have shot up 60% in the past two years. Atkin says that modern ross are 'a lot better made than the pallid, over-cropped fare we used to drink', and that most styles these days are 'dry, fruity and extremely good with food'.