Climate change is affecting wine growers across the world but nowhere more so than Germany, argues JANCIS ROBINSON MW. All that extra sunshine has been translated into extra stuffing in the trocken Rieslings that tasted so unappealingly meagre a decade or two ago.' Another noticeable change, she says, is the new wave of reds: Germany is now well and truly a red wine-producing country even if the most usual grape is Pinot Noir, or Sptburgunder.' According to Robinson, 2005 was as good to Germany as it was to France, and her top producers include Dr Crusius, Fritz Haag, Keller and Stefan Winter.
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JAMIE GOODE turns his attention to spicy foods this week and picks out wines to bring out a synergy of flavours far greater than the sum of is parts'. A good bet for chilli fans is 2004 Pinot Blanc Auxerrois Albert Mann, Alsace (8.49; Oddbins), which is a rich, concentrated, fat white wine with melon and apricot fruit' or the fresh, lemony' Tesco Finest Vintage Cava, Spain (5.93). Question of the week for Goode is: Will the effects of global warming mean that the UK could be producing wines as serious as those from France in 50 years time?' He replies that nobody can be sure of the consequences so it could be good news or bad news for the 200-odd vineyards currently operating in the UK'.
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Beer sales are likely to soar during the World Cup weeks, says JAMIE GOODE, but 'before you grab a couple of crates of your regular lager, why not think out of the box a bit?' Among his suggestions are Duvel, Belgium (1.65; Tesco, Oddbins).
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The Sideways effect might not have hit the UK to the same extent as it hit the US but 'sales of Pinot Noir are definitely climbing', reports JOANNA SIMON. Her favourites include 2004 Givry Domaine de la Fert (12.20; Jeroboams)
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RICHARD EHRLICH is a rare creature indeed: a member of the male sex who has not been hijacked by World Cup mania. 'The event holds little interest for me, as I'm not a follower of the sport in question,' he says. However, this hasn't stopped him thinking about some liquid refreshment for those who are interested and he recommends the services of Rent-a-Keg. 'They have access to a range of 400 real ales in casks: Youngs AAA, Fullers London Pride and Adnams Broadside are just three of their bestsellers, and all are supplied with a traditional hand pump so you can pull a pint for your guest like a real-live publican.' Or, for readers who would rather stick to wine, his suggestions include 2005 Flagstone Fish Hoek Ros (5.99; Oddbins).
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'In wine circles the ability to spit like an Icelandic geyser is a critical social skill,' observes VICTORIA MOORE. She admits that the higher echelons of the 'spitocracy' continue to elude her and comments: 'The most experienced and revered palates scour the tables at great speed, swirl, gargle, then, with something of the swagger with which a cowboy might draw his pistol, their glance flicks in the direction of the spittoon and, at long range a jet of liquid arcs suddenly into it.' Spitting aside, she recommends a few of her Italian favourites, including 2005 La Prendina Estate Corvina (5.99; Marks and Spencer).
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VICTORIA MOORE is treated to a glass of 1986 Chteau Lafite-Rothschild - her first first growth' - and she's far from disappointed. It had more presence than any other wine I have ever drunk,' she comments and, for those with money to burn, she discovers the wine can be bought at Berry Bros and Rudd for 402 per bottle. Meanwhile down at the other end of the price scale, she recommends a few summer whites for under a fiver, including 2005 Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc (4.99; Marks and Spencer).
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Mid-priced wines are the focus for JANE MacQUITTY this week, and she puts forward her top 25 bottles for under 8. Topping the whites is 2003 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, von Kesselstatt, Germany (7.99; selected Co-op, Jeroboams). Her red winners include 2003 Hegarty Chamans, Vin de Table, France (6.99; Oddbins).
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ANTHONY ROSE presents his own take on a summer A-Z of wine and starts off with Albario. 'Rioja might not agree and Catalonia might object, but only the most parochial would challenge Albario's claim to the Spanish white wine crown.' And if anyone is in doubt, he suggests they try a bottle of 2005 Sainsbury's Taste the Difference Albario (5.99). Somewhere in the middle, Grner Veltliner gets a look in, with the 'outstanding' 2005 Gobelsburger Grner Veltliner Kamptal, Austria (6.49; Waitrose). And bringing up the rear is 2005 Casillero del Diablo Viognier, Chile (5.99; Morrisons), 'which displays the full-on, peachy fruitiness of the grape'.
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JONATHAN RAY goes on a visit to Corsica, having been promised a wonderful wine experiece by Jason Yapp of Yapp Brothers. One of the wineries on the itinery is Domaine Saparale, and Ray is 'pleasantly surprised'. The next visit offers up a 2005 Domaine Torraccia Rouge, which is reportedly reminiscent of a 'fox's arse' when young, but luckily becomes 'marvellously juicy and jammy' with a bit of age. Ultimately, says Ray, 'it's Corsica's ross that hit the spot'. Other recommendations of the week include 2004 Da Luca Grillo-Chardonnay, Sicily (5.99; Somerfield).
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JOANNA SIMON takes a moment to consider the French AOC of Lirac and comments: It isn't so much one of France's forgotten wines as one that has never really made an impression.' If you can find these wines on a restaurant list, they're likely to be good value, she continues, or if you'd rather drink at home, try 2003 Chteau d'Aquria, Lirac (7.99; Majestic) or 2003 Domaine du Joncier, Lirac (8.50; Stone, Vine and Sun.
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JANCIS ROBINSON MW says no to both red and white this week, insisting that sometimes only pink will do. 'There is something terribly compelling about ros on a summer's day.' Pink wines might not be taken as seriously as red and white, but there are still several styles to choose between and Robinson strives to make the decision easier. She comes up with six categories: three ros styles and three chilled reds. Ross are divided into 'Pretty Pinks', 'Pink Pinots' and 'Clarete Style', while the chillable reds are Beaujolais, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. One of her 'Pretty Pink' favourites is 2005 Cavalchina Chiaretto Bardolino (5.99 or 4.79 if you buy two; Majestic).
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ANDREW NEATHER eschews summer whites and ross, pointing out that current weather conditions require something a bit more robust'. He advises trying a bottle of 2003 Palestra Tinto, Douro (6.50; Jeroboams).
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Salads are on the menu of the day for JAMIE GOODE and he's not very happy about it. If pushed to compile a "difficult foods to match wines with" list, I think salads would be somewhere near the top.' The only answer, he says, is to go for fruity and flavourful. One example is 2004 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Mosel Saar Ruwer (11.95; Lay & Wheeler).
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RICHARD EHRLICH is raving about Jamie Goode's book, Wine Science: The Application of Science in Wine Making, this week - in a good way. It surveys authoritatively just about every important area of scientific study in the wine world.' Recommended wines include 2005 Anakena Chardonnay/Viognier (5.99; Co-op).
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Madeira is the order of the day and PETER GROGAN reports on a new campaign for the Portuguese export. Historically, the wine has a rather fuddy-duddy image, which the Madeira Wine Company (now part of the Symington Port dynasty) is keen to change,' he says. The first step in this direction was the launch of Alvada, a smartly packaged blend of five-year-old wines with a shocking pink label', which, according to Grogan, has been a success'. Although, the best thing to come from the island is still the vintage Madeiras, which emerge with all those nutty, coffee and drid-fruit flavours deliciously intensified by the effects of evaporation'. General wines of the week, with a Portuguese theme, include 2002 Quinta de la Rosa (10.95 or 9.85 by the case; Berry Brothers & Rudd) and 2003 Quinta do Crasto (6.99; Adnams).
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JANE MacQUITTY introduces the first instalment of her Top 100 Summer Wines, and France is flying, with half of today's field made up of French wines, and just a quarter coming from the New World, the reverse of what happened 12 months ago'.
Macquitty's top 25 wines for under a fiver include 2004 Tariquet, Vin de Pays des Ctes de Gascogne, Famille Grassa (4.99; Somerfield) and 2005 Vin de Pays de l'Ardche Gamay, Cave de Saint Dsirat (3.49; Marks and Spencer).
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Pinot Noir is supposed to be the most romantic of grapes', says VICTORIA MOORE, yet she feels that people are often disappointed with the results from the Sideways favourite. For a Burgundy to remember, she suggests trying 2002 Savigny-les-Beaune, Bouchard Pre et Fils (12.99; Waitrose).
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Pink is the colour of this week's Wow' from MATTHEW JUKES, and it's the most vibrant ros of the year so far': 2005 Cousio-Macul Cabernet Sauvignon Ros, Maipo (5.99; Selfridges, Taurus Wines of Guildford, Castang of Cornwall, Corks Out of Warrington).
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TIM ATKIN MW has toppled over to the dark side and declared himself to be a believer. That is to say, he's beginning to think that wines, just like people, have good and bad days' and he is thus prepared to put faith in the biodynamic idea of root', fruit' and flower' days.
He's not the only one who feels so inclined, and a chat with Marks and Spencer's wine buyer, Jo Ahearne, reveals that the retailer is hugely guided by lunar cycles and never holds press tastings on root days any more'. Some of the best from M&S included 2004 Lone Range Pinot Noir, Martinborough (14.99).
Atkin is joined by REBECCA SEAL for an in-depth look at cool summer drinking, and ros continues its winning streak, with top examples including 2004 Tariquet Ros, Vin de Pays des Ctes de Gascogne (5.99; Somerfield). Seal turns her attention to spirts and introduces the results of a blind tasting, which aimed to discover if it's worth paying more for a designer brand. Tanqueray 10 came out well on the gin front, but Bombay Sapphire did not. Reshnoff was the winning vodka.
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