The right ingredient

The impact and repercussions of last month's Dispatches programme on Channel 4 and my fellow columnist Malcolm Gluck's recent article regarding 'the unpalatable truth behind the wine industry', are still being felt.

Central to both features was the lack of ingredients listing for wine. The communication was alarmist and somewhat sensational. Yes, the consumer has every right to know and understand what is in any product they buy. However, as we all know, it is not quite that simple with a bottle of wine.

Currently, government officials and the agricultural division are pushing for an exemption to general ingredients labelling for a further five years. Reasons include how to communicate effectively multi-lingually, and that the list of ingredients would be so extensive. My view is that the recent attention to this subject should be a stronger wake-up call.

The consumer must be told that the wine industry is already highly regulated, and condemns wine fraud. Most of the ingredients used in wine production pass through each vat, barrel or tank, and generally do not end up in the finished bottle.

Look at the facts - the average quality of wine has improved significantly over recent years and provides far greater reliability for the consumer. Why confuse the issue, just when we are getting to a stage when the mystique and elitism of the old wine industry has almost been eradicated?

We have been debating how to educate the consumer for years. Not all wine is nurtured in oak barrels for two years, but what's wrong with the use of staves or oak chips, and a  modicum of sugar used constructively? Especially if it means that we can provide the average UK wine drinker with enjoyment and good-quality wines. We need more proactive education of the consumer and action by the EU to solve the labelling issue.

Finally, while there will always be the odd exception, an industry "full of liars, cheats, snake oil salesmen and charlatans" as quoted by Malcolm? Well, I admit to having met one or two of the aforementioned salesmen in my buying career, but that is a slight exaggeration at the least.

Angela Mount, ex-Somerfield wine buyer is wine consultant to a number of companies including Great Western and Origin Wine.

• Harpers Says...