Jenny Mackenzie on Marks & Spencer's spring tasting

A key focus of M&S's spring press tasting was to show the 'major refresh' of the Italian range, overseen by winemaker Jeneve Williams, working with buyer Emma Dawson.

William's philosophy is to allow "what a region does best" aiming to "capture its uniqueness" whilst putting her "own stamp" on each wine. There were many excellent examples in the Italian range and some innovative single varietals such as Frappato, Perricone and Zibibbo from the underrated, southern island of Sicily.

Australia and New Zealand also stood out at the tasting, with new lines from respected producers such as Innocent Bystander in Victoria and Rod McDonald Wines in Hawke's Bay. In the South African line up, winemaker Jeff Grier of Villiera Wines was noteworthy, with well made wines over-delivering for the price.

M&S also excels in Champagne, particularly 'grower' Champagnes, under the experienced hand of winemaker, Sue Daniels and newcomer to the M&S wine buying team, Dror Nativ.

The 'Wine Direct' online sales of the business is enjoying "substantial growth" according to Hazel Macrae, senior press officer, for food and wine. M&S has an active social media presence, with an impressive 190,000 Twitter followers. M&S's wines deservedly win many competition medals and it was 'Innovator of the Year' at the IWC Merchant Awards 2012.

Four top picks among the numerous excellent wines at the tasting were:

Ken Forrester Wines, Workhorse Sparkling Chenin Blanc, 2011, £9.99, 12% ABV. Just 3.5 g/L dosage and 14 months on lees, give an accomplished, Limoux-like sparkler at a party price point.

Herbert Beaufort, Grand Cru Champagne, NV, £32, 12% ABV. Consistently excellent quality, Pinot Noir dominated 'grower' Champagne in a rich, round style with both depth and elegance.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Organic Chablis, 2010, £15.49, 12.5% ABV. Chablis lovers never tire of the different expressions of Chardonnay found in north Burgundy. This delicious, unoaked example was ripe, full, juicy and spicy.

Umani Ronchi, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, 2011, £11.99, 12.5% ABV. Winner of the most unusual and likeable wine of the tasting. Highly aromatic, with chewy tannins, this was an appealing, foodie red that could work well with fusion cuisine and spicy dishes.

• Richard Siddle
• Sommeliers