Tim Wildman MW: Australia in the Goldilocks Zone

In a bright, white gallery space on The Kings Road in Chelsea the annual Australia Day Wine Tasting took place last week. Amid the slurping and spitting, tasters who listened very carefully may have detected a rumbling; deep, subterranean, underground. It could have been a tube train passing below, or a low flying plane overhead. But it was neither of these. The rumbling you may have heard, over the clatter of bottles of Chardonnay and Shiraz, is the sound made as the tectonic plates of the Great Australian Wine Industry shift and rearrange themselves for the first time in a generation.