Jancis Robinson MW has "become increasingly aware of a new phenomenon in a worrying proportion of red wine". Although such wines smell of opulence they often leave her "palate feeling as though it has been energetically scoured by sandpaper". A number of theories are ventured to explain the syndrome but Robinson ominously rounds up "it would seem that there is no shortage of sandpaper beyond the grave".
Read more...The 2007 Viognier Stamford Brook (£5.99, Australia) is a "hugely fruity white, bursting with ripe peach," says Susy Atkins. Her second choice is the 2005 Botrytis Semillon (£5.99, Tesco) which has a "rich jamminess". "Botrytis is also known as 'noble rot', which I realise sounds horrid," admits Atkins, but readers should pursue both recommendations as long as they are chilled well before serving.
Read more...Joanna Simon turns her attention to the Castel/Oddbins/Nicolas saga in her column this week. However she remains unconvinced by some of the ramifications of the takeover. "All French wines are now bought by Nicolas in Paris. This may sound sensible, but the effect has been depressing," she laments. Ignoring French offerings, Simon highlights the 2007 Pinot Grigio Red Hill Estate (£9.99, Oddbins) for its "lively, appley, nutty and mineral" notes.
Read more...In these times of credit woe we should take note that Aldi has taken the "discount mantle" from Kwik Save, says Anthony Rose. "Aldi's low wine prices are all the more remarkable, given that the euro is so strong and the government now takes £1.72 in tax on every bottle of wine," he adds. The 2007 Chardonnay Torrontes Tierra del Sol (£3.49) "would not disgrace the dinner table" while Aldi's flush shoppers might want to try the 2007 Latuilière Sancerre (£8.99) which "offers the requisite herbaceous quality to customers in search of a treat".
Read more..."France, for all its failings, continues to set the standards for global fine wine production," Jane MacQuitty explains. This was her response to a "Gallic-wine-hating reader" who complained that MacQuitty's pages were full of endless plugs for French wine. Particular current favourites include the "celery-scented style" 2007 Vin de Pays Cuvée Pêcheur (£3.69, Waitrose) and the 2005 Moulin à Vent, La Roche-Vineuse (£13.95, Berry Bros & Rudd).
Read more...Tim Atkin MW is back from his several-week hiatus and he is in a combative mood. "Castel's ownership of Oddbins has been a disaster," he rages, and the recent press tasting has done little to allay his fears. Atkin's main bone of contention seems to be Alain Favereau, a Castel buyer, who "has no understanding whatsoever of what UK consumers (and wine writers) like to drink". Thankfully there are "one or two decent wines" remaining. As examples, he chooses the "herbal, aromatic, multi-dimensional blend" 2007 De Grendel Winifred (£9.59, Oddbins) and the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Matahiwi Holly (£10.99, Oddbins) with its "remarkable complexity".
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PLB's Beer Division has won new listings in Sainsbury's and Booker C&C for Summer Lightning - the Premium Bottled Ale from Hop Back Brewery, which is represented by PLB in the Off-Trade.
English wine should be "top of your list if you're feeling even faintly patriotic," Joanna Simon feels. "Quality across the board has been rising steadily," she adds, but consumers can expect to pay for the experience. The 2006 Bacchus Reserve Chapel Down (12.99, Selfridges) is a "delicious, tangy, floral, passion fruit-flavoured" wine.
Read more...This week Atkins joins MacQuitty with her own assessment of alternative wine packaging and in particular the pouch, which "is a plastic, silvery, space-age thing with a tap in the top". The 1.5-litre 2007 Chenin-Chardonnay Arniston Bay (9.79, Tesco) is "simple and light, but a perfectly palatable white, with some crisp, green apple fruit". As long as you don't expect the world, Atkins has good things to say about the pouch. One word of warning from her though as "no one is putting classed-growth Claret in a pouch, just yet".
Read more...Jamie Goode is thinking of our health this week as he touches on the subject of low-alcohol wines. "There are times when something a little lower in calories or alcohol is required," he says. One of his more interesting recommendations is the 2006 McGuigan Shiraz Lower Alcohol (6.19, Tesco). "Aussie Shiraz normally packs a punch like an angry kangaroo," he warns, "[but] there's no doubting its heritage" when you taste this low-alcohol and reduced calorie version.
Read more...Jancis Robinson MW is thinking pink this week. "Perhaps the most visible change in what goes into wine glasses over the past few years has been the newly respectable status of pink wine, even for men." And what should we be drinking, pray tell? The 2007 Chinon Ros Chteau de Ligr (8.90, Yapp Bros) features as does the 2007 Les Parcelles Ros Foncaussade (5.69, Waitrose), which is "a wine that actually has character".
Read more..."Let's hear it for Cabernet Franc, a grape that is usually regarded as the least interesting of the three major red Bordeaux varieties," says Tim Atkin MW. Often used in the Gironde to perfume red blends, it is only in the Loire Valley where the grape gets solo billing, he adds. The grape's style "varies from light and fruity to rich and profound" but it is always good value making chilled Cabernet Franc one of Atkin's "favourite summer wine styles". The 2006 Cabernet Franc Raats, Stellenbosch (17.99, Alliance Wines) merits a mention for its "subtle perfume, sleek oak and polished tannins". Atkin also highlights the "complex, silky" 2001 Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos, Charles Joguet (13.99, Majestic).
Read more..."Strawberries are the ultimate summertime treat," says Jamie Goode and his wine selections are intended to reflect this. His first choice is "utterly delicious", if slightly predictable - it is the 2007 Shiraz Ros Casillero del Diablo (5.99, widely available). Next up from Britain's best-known wine blogger is the 2006 Carmenere Luis Felipe Edwards (6.19, Tesco), which gains plaudits for its "deliciously intense, dark-fruited" nature. The "blush-coloured" 2007 Syrah Ros from Santa Julia (5.19, Somerfield) also makes an appearance.
Read more...Supermarkets are beginning to catch on to the biodynamic craze as consumers develop a taste for wines free from pesticides, says Anthony Rose. There is still some scepticism around the subject, he admits, but believes it is healthy as "it questions the practices and the effects without swallowing them hook, line and sinker". And whether or not you feel burying a bull's horn in a vineyard will improve the taste of its wine, there are still some great recommendations this week. The "stylish" 2007 Watervale Riesling KT & The Falcon (19, Berry Bros & Rudd) features as does the 2006 Sustainable Shiraz Cederburg (Waitrose, 7.50) whose "black cherry fruit is neatly rounded out with a touch of oak".
Read more..."Vin de pays often offers good value and a more subtle alternative to the generally bolder flavours of the New World," says Anthony Rose. One of the main reasons for this is that vin de pays wines are able to mention the grape variety on the label thus better communicating with the consumer, he adds. Rose's choices this week include the 2006 Domaine de L'Hortus Grande Cuve Blanc, (14.70, Les Caves de Pyrne) and the 2004 Domaine Guillaume Vin de Pays du Franche Comt, (22, Theatre of Wine, Greenwich).
Read more...Joanna Simon admits she dislikes the low alcohol "nanny tendency as much as anybody," but concedes it makes sense to know how much you are drinking given the stronger wines available nowadays. And for all those ridden by guilt by their weekend activities, she helpfully points out a 250ml wine glass is only one fluid ounce off a half pint. It's not all doom and gloom though, as Simon suggests consumers swat up on low-alcohol wines. Ctes de Gascogne, Riesling, English and German wines, Vinho Verde, Australian Semillon, Prosecco, Cava and Txakoli from Spain all feature on the worthy wine drinkers list.
Read more...The link between music and wine is an interesting one to Tim Atkin MW, particularly after hearing a recent record by Austrian winemaker Willi Opitz. The imaginatively-titled The Sound of Wine' became a bestseller in Austria and was "one of the weirdest bits of music I have ever heard," he said. The article is in reference to recent research, which found the style of music we listen to affects the way we taste wine. Atkin ran this past an Oxford academic friend of his and they were sceptical. Nevertheless, just in case the findings hold any stock he picked several wines that "taste equally good with anything playing in the background. Even the Spice Girls". The 2007 Watervale Riesling KT & The Falcon (14.95, Berry Brothers) is an "intense" wine while the 2006 Ribera del Duero Nos Riqueza (9.99, Marks & Spencer) is "sweetly oaked and well structured".
Read more...It's English Wine Week until June 1 - something that has not escaped Susy Atkins' notice. "I recommend everyone else gets out over the next few days and makes their way to the nearest English winery (preferably by foot, bus or taxi, so you don't have to do that awful spitting-out)," she quips. If you fancy trying a local tipple, Atkins picks out the 2006/07 Madeleine Angevine Sharpham Estate (9.95, Waitrose), which is "a modern, young white with notes of lemon and grapefruit".
Read more...Jancis Robinson MW is aware everything is laid on for wine writers so on a recent trip to Napa she decided to rough it with the hoi polloi and "pose as a wine tourist to see what is available to the casual visitor". The main theme from her piece is that the term casual' is in fact misplaced as "the wine tourist has to organise things well in advance". And her top prize for Napa Valley wine tourism experience? The Robert Mondavi Winery in Oakville, of course.
Read more...Jamie Goode's choices are nothing if not extravagant this week with a "state banquet" theme providing his inspiration. The 2004 Corton-Charlemagne Bouchard (79, Waitrose) comes highly recommended, as "no state dinner would be complete without a serious white Burgundy". Elsewhere, he flags up the "stunning" 2000 Barolo Mascarello (43.50, Berry Bros & Rudd) with its "lovely fresh acidity and grippy tannins".
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