Advertisement Feature: Rioja Residency

By Harpers Editorial

Published: 14 July, 2023

A selection of age-worthy styles from recent to older decades were on full show at this recent event – a new, unbeatable showing of the region’s best wines.

Rioja’s ascendancy has been fully established in the UK for some time. As one of the most popular categories on the market, it can claim that rare brand equity which puts it among the most enviable regions in the world, with a story and wines which resonate with consumers at all levels, to the very top tier.

It was with great excitement then, that the region’s top echelon made its way to London on 21 June for a brand new tasting which put the very best of Rioja front and centre.

Read more: Justerini & Brooks adds Bodegas Fulcro of Rias Baixas DO

An event “like no other”, Rioja Residency took place at London hotel The Ned, where more than 200 trade guests embarked on an educational journey through the region.

Drawing from some of the 133 Viñedos Singulares wines currently registered in Rioja, a total of 100 of Rioja’s pre-eminent wines from 33 different wineries gathered to ensure Rioja put its best foot forward.

Sarah Jane Evans MW uncovered the region’s diversity via a lively panel discussion and tasting on The Ten Hero Wine Styles of Rioja, which put together an ‘essentials’ list together for the mainly on-trade crowd. Meanwhile, sommelier Gonzalo Rodriguez Diaz displayed the region’s versatility by matching an eclectic line-up of Rioja wines with a number of innovative and top-end pairings, prepared by The Ned’s resident chef.

It was the Secrets of the Cellar session, however, which put the astounding longevity of the wines to the test by showcasing exceptional vintages from three of Pedro Ballesteros MW’s favourite Rioja producers: Marqués de Riscal (2020 and 1956), Martínez Lacuesta (2010 and 1964) and Señorío de San Vicente (2019 and 1994).

Each over 100 years old, the three wineries were able to fully display the breadth of the old and the new Rioja. All the wines had one thing in common, however – each has been made to last. “The focus on ageing wine, and selling according to age, is deep in Rioja’s history; and it has been preserved,” Ballesteros said.

“That’s the difference with Rioja. Plenty of regions make wine for longevity, but Rioja has been very lucky, because there has been no war in this territory for more than 200 years, which means no disruption. Marqués de Riscal has been ageing wine in barrels since 1862. It is the only winery in the world, that I know of, which has wine from every year that it has been making wine.”

Ballesteros’s selection, “made with the science of today, but with the vision for the future”, showed how the more recent wines in the line-up also display the same longevity, with some differences.

Purity to the fore

Modern winemaking techniques, along with varying uses of oak, were all very much on show, with concentration, purity and texture to the fore.

Such wines include the San Vincente 2019 from Señorío de San Vicente – one of Alavesa’s classic wineries and a leading quality pioneer. In particular, Ballesteros emphasised the wine’s ability to showcase the purity of the zone. “The 1998s are now ready to drink and just get smoother. Every five to 10 years adds another layer of complexity,” he said.

Marqués de Riscal’s Tapias 2020 is one of Alavesa’s 59 single vineyard wines, while Martínez Lacuesta’s 125th anniversary wine (2010) benefits from the winery’s longstanding ambition to unlock the secrets of ageing, having led a rediscovery of old vines back in the 1960s.

Today, Rioja is a treasure trove of regional microclimates and single vineyard sites, which combine deep-seated knowledge to make wines which stand the test of time.

As Ballesteros says, it is a constant evolution, but one that remains relevant for modern drinkers: “Rioja is, in my view, a region in transformation. It used to be a region of wineries. Now, it is a region of wineries and winegrowers. The single vineyard classification is part of that. In the next few years, I think we will see the very top-quality vinegrowers working together with top-quality winemakers... while preserving this capability to make top-quality, age-worthy wines.”

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