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Languedoc's changing tide in fortunes

It’s been many years since the phenomenon of the flying winemaker touched down in the Languedoc. Over two decades ago, a roster of now firmly cemented superstar names brought a touch of new-generation enthusiasm to the region, with fresh ideas often anchored around varietal-led wines being funnelled inwards, not only from within France itself, but across the world.

In 2022, the tide has changed, again. Having now proven itself infinitely capable of producing world-beating, terroir-driven wines, the Languedoc is pushing ahead with the wines of its regional AOP, which are showing true promise in a commercially fertile middle ground.

These are wines from a broad and almost intimidatingly varied area: the regional AOP covers a vast swathe of land from Nimes to the Spanish border, edged in on the eastern side by the Mediterranean Sea and in the west by the foothills of the Cévennes and Montagne Noire. Unsurprisinlgy, it’s also the region’s biggest volume, responsible for 25% of the Languedoc’s total production. In recent years, rosé has also leapfrogged red to account for 55% of what is made annually (up from 25% in 2008).

Across its three distinct climatic zones, the Languedoc AOP is also increasingly establishing itself as a well of deeply expressive and personal wines, often made on a small scale with a level of freedom afforded, which yields enticing results at all price points.

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Expert panel

It is against this backdrop that Harpers convened a roundtable of experts to dive into a representative sample of whites, reds and rosés. On a blustery British day in October, the wines recalled the warm, dry climate of Languedoc, with samples spanning the length of the AOP.

Hosted at Swains, the new Hampstead Heath shop-turned-restaurant owned by ex-St John Restaurant buyer Victoria Sharples, and hosted in conjunction with Harpers and the CIVL, the discussion tended to look at how the AOP is finding a midpoint between inexpensive bulk wines for which the region was once known, and the very top end wines, for which it has carved a more recent niche.

Instead, it is the exciting middle ground of vibrant and modern wines offering great value which panellists saw as the region of real opportunity. If that offer can be backed up and combined with marketing strategies which anchor a localised sense of place – and thus avoiding the potentially amorphous umbrella term of ‘Languedoc’ – so much the better.

“I’ve always been hugely supportive of Languedoc rosé,” Sharples said of the AOP’s shift towards rosé production. “The area is just so diverse… and actually, when it comes to marketing decisions, perhaps the conversation needs to centre around the area being responsible for making really delicious wine. Wines from this area can be dry and light or they can be more premium; they can be unctuous; or just a really great dry, simple rosé or something much more salty. There’s so much to offer.”

Other panellists were equally drawn to those styles which were “honest and drinkable”.

“Provence has caused as many problems as it has solved,” added Jamie Wynne-Griffiths, MD of distributor with a difference, Propeller. “It’s the style to ape and emulate. But the ones that got it right were the ones that were recognisably Southern French rosés, rather than trying to be something else. It’s more interesting to do something more idiosyncratic and individual, though admittedly, more commercially risky.”

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Sense of place

Staying true to form – and true to their French roots – was also key to the conversation. While some thought certain wines were too serious in style – and therefore priced themselves out of a sweet spot – the best examples of the day were those that offered value for money, drinkability and a strong sense of place, both inside and outside the bottle.

“The ones with romance [on the label] are the ones that pulled me in,” said Wynne-Griffiths. “More than saying Syrah and Grenache on the label, producers need to give people clear reference points, like a map or bit of a story. Some of these blends are up against shouty varietal wines from other countries. Explaining the combination of parcels that have been made for generations… that’s your story.”

As part of a dense tapestry of varieties, topographies and styles, the region benefits from the kind of hand selling that is key to businesses like Swains, where the list is organised by style. “People don’t ask for a wine from the Languedoc. But if someone says ‘I want something that is soft and plush and easy to drink’, there are a lot to choose from,” says Sharples.

However, customers do ask for organics. While issues in some areas of sustainability can also be amorphous – “what actually is natural wine?” asks Wynne-Griffiths – organic wine is the one thing that “everyone understands” says Sharples.

Organic wine is something that the region can deliver. A total of 29% of France’s organic vineyards are based in the Languedoc (and 10% of all organic acreage worldwide).

Across such a multifaceted tapestry, the opportunities are endless. The AOP now spans some 450 wineries and 80 co-ops, each with their own unique style and story.

Languedoc is quite literally the home of ‘yes’. As Wynne-Griffiths pointed out: “The Languedoc translates to the place where they say ‘oc’ instead of ‘oui’, for ‘yes’.”

As these wines push outwards, it looks as if consumers will be saying ‘yes’ to them for years to come.

Panellists’ top picks

Jamie Wynne-Griffiths, MD, Propeller

Costeplane – Pioch de L’Oule (white), 2019

Clean, contemporary packaging. Subtle but enticing floral aromatics. Strikes the perfect balance between freshness and palate weight, bone dry and long. Delicious.

Domaine de L’Aster – Anglicaé (rosé), 2021

In comparison with some rosés, which feel like they’re trying a little too hard to be Provençal, this stood out as an honest, balanced, wholesome and dangerously gluggable Languedoc rosé. Great value, too.

Bergerie du Capucin – Les 100 Pas du Berger Rouge (red), 2020

A pretty ‘safe’ label. Lush nose, lovely texture, well-managed tannins. A hearty, appealing red.

General comments:

An intriguing tasting, overall. The whites were generally on the richly textured end of the spectrum, which is fascinating for winos, but tricky for general consumers. The wines that put Vermentino and Grenache Blanc to the fore – at the expense of Roussanne and Marsanne – felt more punter-friendly as a result.

Some of the rosés were having a slight crisis of identity, with a case of style over substance. The reds were a study in dark fruits and spice, sometimes the complexities of the cepages weren’t reflected in the finished wines. But overall, these were rewarding to taste.

Victoria Sharples, owner, Swains

Domaine de Brescou – Château Rouge (red), 2020

Excellent character, good concentration and length. A moreish wine that would work nicely in the bar. It had attractive savoury notes, offering a more food-friendly wine than a richer, plummy Grenache style that some of these wines showed.

Mas Conscience – L’In (white), 2020

Very interesting. A slight petrol character, like Riesling, with white pepper notes. Would make a really lovely food wine.

Special mentions:

L’Estabel – Grande Cuvee Comtesse (rosé), 2021, and Château de Lascaux – Éclat de Garrigue (rosé), 2021

General comments:

Overall, the wines were of a good standard: well-made, clean and relatively expressive. The reds showed the most charm and drinkability, while a couple of the rosés showed lovely expression of fruit, freshness and vibrancy. It’s something the wineries need to take a closer look at, as the area has significant potential for producing excellent rosés that are pale, dry and expressive, with a UK market increasingly willing to take them alongside or instead of their Provence rosés.

Poppy De Courcy-Wheeler, partner & wine buyer, rosé, Burgundy & regional France, Waitrose

L’Estabel – Grande Cuvée Comtesse (rosé), 2021

This wine stood out because of its red fruit, it was more like a food wine, with some real substance to it. It had shelf appeal, too.

General comments:

I would love to have a few more parcels from the region that are slightly premium on our shelves. The wines offer a really good starting point for customers to get to know the area better and experiment, while perhaps moving outside of their usual territory.

With this range, I particularly enjoyed the reds. They ticked the boxes I would expect from Languedoc reds: a bit rustic, robust and ripe, while being full of fantastic peppery garrigue notes.

In partnership with Vins du Languedoc

• France
• Rosé
• Languedoc