Looking Back, Forging Ahead Q&A: Francois Bertrand, Pan Pacific London

By Harpers Editorial

Published: 06 January, 2023

Following another turbulent year for the drinks trade, Francois Bertrand, head sommelier at Pan Pacific London, reflects on the highs and lows of 2022, plus the hopes and plans for the business in the year ahead.

How has business been for you across 2022 when compared with 2021?

Pan Pacific London only opened in September 2021, so 2022 was our first full year, but it was an incredible promising one. Things were a little slow to start, given we were still in the midst of the pandemic. But we have gone from strength to strength which is really rewarding for us to see.

What, for you, were the specific highs of 2022?

Getting busier month after month. Gradually getting our wine cellar in shape with more allocation of specialist wines. Seeing returning guests that enjoyed our food and restaurant so much they want to come back. Adding more Chinese wines to our unique selection to differentiate it.

And the lows?

The quiet period of early 2021 due to Omicron Covid.

More specifically, how has the cost-of-living crisis impacted and what as a business have you done to help mitigate the effects for you and your customers?

The key is to find good quality products that you know will sell and be popular, but that are also affordable. As an example, we made some changes in our wine selection by the glass when we noticed that some of our items were not meeting this important criterion anymore. We removed our Chablis premier cru, which was previously our best seller, but its price increased drastically and was not viable for our guests anymore. I then decided to add a high-quality Chablis to replace this one, which has been as successful as it is predecessor as per our guests’ feedback.

How much of a concern is the proposed change to the duty regime?

I do think the proposed change of duty regime should be well received with minimal if not at all impact on the drink industry. Main targeted products are stronger alcohol items such as full body reds and fortified wines, which will be slightly more expensive. However, those drinks are often accompanied by a meal and this clientele will not change their habits.

On the other hand, most consumed products such as beers, cider, rosé, Champagne and Prosecco will see a drop in prices because of their lower alcohol content, which I think is a good move for the hospitality industry in the UK, specifically for small businesses such as pubs that are currently facing uncontrollable price inflation.

In terms of the product itself and drinking occasions, which current trends in the drink’s world would you predict to continue to grow and why?

I think, since the Covid pandemic, our society has become much more health cautious. We have noticed our guests become more particular with their diet, with a focus on avoiding or reducing processed food, animal consumption and saturated fats with an increasing vegan diet. I do think drinks are following the same direction.

People want to drink more healthily, which results in an increasing offering of non-alcohol products such as mocktails and non-alcoholic wines. I tried a non-alcoholic Champagne last year. At the beginning, I was not very confident in this type of product. But let me tell you, I have been blown away by how much care the winemaker is investing in this, as it is very quality driven.

Also, many destinations cocktail bars are now working with incredible suppliers which provide exceptional organic and natural ingredients. I strongly believe that this trend is at a starting point and will continue to rise in the coming years.

As a business, what goals have you set for 2023 and how do you expect to achieve them?

Having been lucky enough to discover the opportunity of Chinese wines and the overall philosophy behind them, I hope to be able to help a wider public to get to know them and appreciate the intricacy and history of these lesser-known great wines.

More generally, in terms of business, how do you predict the drinks landscape will look this time next year?

The drinking business is stable, but I have the intuition that the most difficult challenge to overcome will be to find the perfect balance between great value-for-quality as economic inflation is impacting the affordability of drinks.

We have noticed an average of £2 to £3 increase per bottle since we opened the restaurant, which has resulted in a higher selling price point for our guests. We have the duty to meet our guests’ expectations by finding the right balance and respecting our guests by providing satisfactory products.

Quick fire questions:

Champagne or English sparkling?

Champagne

Cocktail or straight spirit?

Spirit

Riesling or Chardonnay?

Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley

Pinot Noir or Bordeaux-style blend?

Blend is always best

Michelin starred or relaxed bistro?

Michelin star

Desert island tipple?