Awatere Valley winemakers challenging the Sauvignon status quo

By Jo Gilbert

Published: 06 October, 2016

New Zealand is well known for its crisp and fruity Sauvignon Blancs, but winemakers from Marlborough's Awatere Valley are ripping up the rulebook by incorporating new techniques.

Consultant winemaker Tamra Kelly-Washington spoke to Harpers about the alternative methods at Yealands Estate and The Crossings where they are using large oak barrels and concrete eggs instead of the usual stainless steel to create creamier textures.

"UK consumers are open to different styles of wine. Most consumers know Sauvignon Blanc as fruity, clean and fresh, but I think these drinkers looking for something more complex. We're making a few different styles of Sauvignon Blanc, which are fruit driven and fresh but also savoury and elegant," she said.

Kelly-Washington was in the UK this week to showcase the sub regionality of Marlborough and the Awatere Valley.

During her visit, she spoke about the other varietals coming from the region and introduced The Crossings' first Gruner Veltliner to a UK crowd.

Kelly-Washington is currently using four different fermentation vessels for the Gruner, including concrete eggs.

Sauvignon Blanc is the flagship grape for both Yealands and The Crossings, marking around 70% of production.

By contrast, Gruner Veltiner accounts for just 30 hectares of vines in New Zealand - with 20 of that number coming from Marlborough and three from Yealands and The Crossings' estates.

"Gruner is fun and shows we're doing something different. But it's very small production," the Marlborough winemaker added.

The UK market still has a seemingly unquenchable thirst for New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, and the Awatere is continuing to play to its strengths.

"The trade still wants it to be about classic Sauvignon Blanc, so only 30% of the wine made in alternative oak or concrete as opposed to stainless," she said.

In terms of planted vines, the Awatere Valley area represents 25% of Marlborough's wine landscape and its influence is beginning to grow.

Traditionally, the area used to blend Awatere grapes with those from other regions.

But over the past 15 years, Awatere Valley has established itself as a wine growing region in its own right with higher and higher percentages of the grapes making it into the blends.

"Around 75% of Yealands and The Crossings come from Awatere. We love Awatere, but it's still the last region to be discovered. It's cooler than the dominant northern region, so the wines are more restrained, elegant, salty and herbal rather then the fruiter area," Kelly-Washington said.

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