The organisation responsible for promoting Japanese food and drinks globally, JFOODO, has launched a campaign that will see some of the top restaurants in London celebrate the “food-pairing versatility of Sake” this February.
Under the banner of Sake Food Sensations, a collection of high-quality restaurants will offer exclusive pairing menus designed to showcase Sake’s versatility with a variety of modern European cuisines.
Director at JFOODO, Masaru Mizoguchi noted that Sake is heavily associated with Japanese cuisine in the UK, and that the majority of its consumption takes place in Japanese restaurants.
Commenting on the campaign, Mizoguchi said: “The quality and diversity of Sake mean it deserves far broader recognition.
“We want to show how well Sake pairs with modern European dishes.
“Our hope is that this experience will inspire restaurants to keep Sake on their menus and help more diners discover its versatility long after the campaign ends.”
Last week Harpers got a head start on the February promotion, attending a masterclass at two Michelin star restaurant Trivet. Both head chef Jonny Lake and co-owner Isa Bal MS are championing the campaign, having already incorporated Sake into their inventive approach to flavour and texture.
They shared a menu of dishes specially created to pair with premium Sake, designed to inspire the assembled sommeliers and chefs in creating their own pairings for diners to enjoy throughout February.
Pairings included cured seabass with cornsilk (and mustard, ginger salsify and quinoa cracker) and Masumi 'Sanka' Sake, purple sprouting broccoli (with isot pepper, lemon and anchovy) and Hoyo 'Genji' Sake, and Hokkaido Potato (a baked potato mille-feuille, sake and white chocolate ganache) with Kamoizumi Nigori Ginjo Sake.
Lake said: “I’ve been inspired by Japanese ingredients for a very long time and during my trip to Japan with Isa, I was impressed by the versatility of Sake.
“Its vibrant and diverse flavour profiles make it not only a fascinating beverage but also an exciting ingredient to cook with. At Trivet, we bring this to life in our Hokkaido Potato dessert, adding a unique depth and character that celebrates its Japanese roots.”
Bal added: “Sake is a wonderful drink, full of intricate details and character, that pairs well not only with Japanese cuisine but also with many dishes from around the world.”
Sake expert Henry Thorogood – who provided training for many of the restaurants involved in the February promotion – led the masterclass, informing the assembled guests that Sake can solve some common “pairing problems” associated with wine.
Sake tends to have both a higher umami (up to 25x more) and sugar content than wine or beer, while maintaining much lower levels of ‘cleansing’ acids. This means that while wine is often used as a contrastive palate cleanser, sake offers more ‘support’ to (especially umami) food pairings.
Thorogood emphasised many different ways in which Sake can be paired successfully, one prominent example being with fish, as the right Sake can mellow fishy and salty flavours.
Commenting on the potential of Sake, he said: “There is a saying in Japanese that ‘Sake doesn’t fight with food’, and this rings true.
“Whereas wine is often used to refresh the palate, the lower acidity and much higher levels of umami in Japanese Sake mean that it instead supports the dish – almost hugging the food, adding layers of flavour, and emphasising the deliciousness of the ingredients.
“Regardless of the cuisine, Japanese sake’s very structural makeup means there are relatively few risky food-and-Sake pairings, but many truly wonderful combinations to be explored.”
Offering special pairing menus for at least two weeks in February, the restaurants currently participating in Sake Food Sensations include Albers, Behind, Da Terra, Frame Notting Hill, Galvin La Chapelle, Ibai, Labombe by Trivet, Noizé Ormer Mayfair, Papi, Prince Arthur, Row on 5, Sael, Studio Gauthier and Sune.
Pictured, L-R: Jonny Lake, Isa Bal