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Dry whites come to the fore at Furmint February

Published:  22 February, 2023

Wines of Hungary hosted its fifth Furmint February tasting on Monday (20 February), to some 350 visitors, featuring a snapshot of dry whites from the 2021 vintage and a handful from a promising 2022 vintage as well.

Historically associated with sweet wines, Furmint is being increasingly used to make dry whites and is steadily infiltrating wine lists across the UK.

Zsuzsa Toronyi MD Wines of Hungry said: “Some have said to me it's the main event of the year if you love Hungarian wine, especially Furmint. Most of the producers we have showcased at this event are from Tokaj where the Furmint grape originated but we do have two from the Balaton wine region. 

“Looking around you will find wines covering supermarkets and retailers all the way to the high-end, such as those made by Szepsy, one of the most celebrated wineries in Hungary.”

Toronyi is being modest, Szepsy won Best European Wine Producer at the Golden Vines Awards 2022. 

The Szepsy family has been producing wines since the 1500s in Tokaj, the estate is comprised of 50 ha of vines that are 40 years of age on average, planted on steep slopes at high altitude on rocky volcanic soil.

Like many estates in the Tokaj region, they made their name making dessert wines, but it's the dry whites for which they are best known these days.

Toronyi continued: “Five years ago people didn’t know what dry Furmint was, they had heard of sweet Furmint but I’ve noticed a real shift, especially in restaurant wine lists that feature dry Furmint wines. I’m hoping this trend will carry over into supermarkets.”

The overriding theme was the versatility of the Furmint grape, some of the wines possess a smokiness from Tokaj’s volcanic soils whereas others made in stainless steel tanks have a mineral quality. Hungarian oak is also prevalent in many of the wines such as the dry whites from the Barta winery, which boast a creamy texture with a hint of spice. 

In her foreword for the event, Hungarian wine ambassador Caroline Gilby MW said: “Furmint is increasingly recognised as a grape to watch for its exciting quality and amazing versatility – thrilling dry whites and world-class sweet wines at their best.

“Vintage really matters in this cool, continental, volcanic north-eastern region – and 2021 was one of those rare years when everything came right for both dry and sweet wines.”

However, nothing surpasses the 2017 vintage in Toronyi’s opinion: “2017 was the best so far for Furmint and 2022 is very similar in my opinion but we need to see how it ages and develops, I’m confident it will be the best of the last three years.”

With successive very good vintages on the horizon, there is no reason why Furmint can’t continue its momentum in the UK on all fronts, from supermarkets to fine dining.



 

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