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Guy Woodward: Hegarty's right - we need to follow Top Gear to sell wine

Published:  03 October, 2014

It didn't come as a huge surprise when Sir John Hegarty used his WSTA conference key note speech to deliver a withering assessment of the wine trade's relationship with its audience. One of the foremost marketing exponents of his generation, Hegarty knows a thing or two about generating headlines. 'Appalling', 'pathetic' and 'mad' were among the politer descriptions aimed at his audience. 'Confusing' and 'impenetrable' were daggers to the heart - a stinging critique of the public's perception of the world of wine. Why so stinging? Because the words ring so true...

Wine should follow Top Gear's leadWine should follow Top Gear's leadTop Gun is not about cards but entertainment and wine should do the same, said Sir John Hegarty

It didn't come as a huge surprise when Sir John Hegarty used his WSTA conference key note speech to deliver a withering assessment of the wine trade's relationship with its audience. One of the foremost marketing exponents of his generation, Hegarty knows a thing or two about generating headlines. 'Appalling', 'pathetic' and 'mad' were among the politer descriptions aimed at his audience. 'Confusing' and 'impenetrable' were daggers to the heart - a stinging critique of the public's perception of the world of wine. Why so stinging? Because the words ring so true...

I've already written of my frustration at the wine trade's inability to communicate effectively with consumers - something which my recent day spent judging Harpers' Global Design Awards only reinforced. My fellow judges were puzzled by my habit, on being presented with a bottle to assess, not to linger over the label, but to turn the bottle around to evaluate the back label. But watch consumers in the wine aisles, and you'll see them do exactly the same. The back label is where they go for that extra insight, information and reassurance that they crave - an open goal for producers to make a connection. It's astonishing how many do a Diana Ross.

I think of label design in the same way as I think of a magazine cover. The title and image (the front label) grab the attention, but it's the coverlines (back label) that sell it. Only if these are sufficiently engaging will your audience actually get so far as to open the product and consume it. Most magazine editors I know spend far longer perfecting their cover than any other page in the book. Unfortunately, the wine industry spends most of its time focusing on what's inside the bottle, while doing very little about the more visible exterior.

I'm not suggesting that the quality of the product is not important, of course, just that its marketing merits more thought. Hegarty claimed that 'brand' is seen as a dirty word in wine circles. I'd go further, and say that 'marketing' is viewed with even more suspicion, something with which no wine purist likes to sully their hands. I understand why - we take pride in the intricacies of wine - the terroirs, the blend, the ageing. And that's great if you're dealing in grands crus (or grand crews).

For the 99% of wine sold in this country, though, as with most things in life, style trumps substance. And much as it would be easy to dismiss Hegarty as a slick spin doctor justifying his trade, the unpalatable truth is that, when it comes to selling most of the wines on the shelves, marketing is more important than winemaking.

Talking the talk

Top Gun is not about cards but entertainment and wine should do the same, said Sir John Hegarty

Politics makes for an interesting comparison. Politicians spend a huge amount of time talking to the press. Not all of it is on Newsnight, either. Witness David Cameron cosying up to Schofe and Holly on the This Morning sofa. Why? Because he knows that he needs to make himself accessible to as wide an audience as possible.

I remember, as editor of Decanter, appearing on This Morning a few times (Schofe and Holly were both very nice, by the way). A colleague quibbled about the relevance of the show to our readership, and it's true that we were unlikely to sell many subscriptions off the back of my appearance. But you have to look at the bigger picture, I said, and the potential of such wider exposure for the brand when it comes to attracting people to events, awards, and generally breaking down preconceptions.

In terms of marketing, wine events represent the biggest of open goals - not just for the trade, but for wine press too. For most people, after all, wine is not something that makes for an engaging read. What is does make for is a fun day out at a tasting event where they can try different wines, learn a little about them, and exchange opinions on what they like - without being made to feel ignorant. This is the democratisation of wine - where everyone can have an opinion. The trouble is, there are still far too many people who don't want consumers to have an opinion.

The Three Wine Men are the closest thing wine has to the mass popularity of Top GearThe Three Wine Men are the closest thing wine has to the mass popularity of Top GearOz, Olly and Tim may not have the mass appeal of Top Gear, but their up, close and personal approach to talking about wine is the way for the trade to go

Hegarty suggested that wine should have its own Top Gear - a show that has made a nerdy subject fun, edgy and accessible. Instead, the most high profile national exposure to wine comes through the rather pedestrian Saturday Kitchen, where, despite the best efforts of Olly Smith, Tim Atkin et al, the content is reduced to formulaic soundbite.

I recall once having a meeting with the show's producers to discuss bringing wine into the studio. It didn't happen - they wanted to keep it at arm's length. Such a stance only serves to further alienate consumers. Instead, it's down to us to get out and get wine in front of them - and events are the way to go.

I'm not sure that Olly is yet ready to take on Jeremy Clarkson's mantle, but him, Tim and Oz - the Three Wine Men - are the closest thing we've got to the Top Gear trio. Supremely knowledgeable, all of them, but more importantly, they speak consumers' language. And that language is much better spoken face to face than written down.

Oz, Olly and Tim may not have the mass appeal of Top Gear, but their up, close and personal approach to talking about wine is the way for the trade to go

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